GDF520PGJ6CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.

*Unplug the dishwasher. My drain hose was long enough so no need to disconnect.
Access the motherboard and found a solid green light. This indicates the motherboard is not communicating with the user interface.

Door removal:
- removed kick plate
-unplugged door wire assembly and wire harness clip
-Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pull dishwasher out about 6 inches
-Detached pulley rope assembly from door hinge
-Open door about 4 inches and pull up and towards me.
-Lay the door down, removed vent cap and four T20 screws from the side bottom, remove two 1/4 inch bolt from each hinge(the hinges have four bolts, but only to need to be removed)
-push up on the plastic inner door from outer door and set aside.
-Unscrew four 1/4 inch bolts holding user interface and unplug wire assembly. (The two middle screws are longer than the two outer screws)
-be sure to ground yourself before touching the new user interface board
-read the instructions for the new interface board clip positions(mine was already position correctly)
-Assemble the door and be sure to connect the wire assembly and harness clip.

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

The lower tray was simple. Lifted the old one out and placed the new one on the lid of dishwasher.

Upper tray: Used the closed point of scissors to gently push the little piece of plastic on the slide and removed the cap on each slider. Pulled the damaged tray off of the sliders. Removed the piece that shoots the water onto the dishes and placed it on the new tray. Put the tray back on the sliders and replaced the little caps back onto the slider so that the tray did not come off of the track. Voila!!

Removed toe kick. Removed door counter weights and placed door on soft surface. Removed two bolts(I was able to leave hinges in place) slid door panel down and off. Removed plastic snap fit cover and 4 bolts from UI board. Two of the stand-offs where broken, glued them back into place. Ensured jumpers were set to my model, snapped cover back in place and remounted door. The dishwasher now runs through the cycle and clean light but did not dry. That turned out to be a bad flood switch.

Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.

Started by removing dishwasher, including disconnecting power, water and drain line. Then turned washer on back. Electrical connector to old wash pump was a little tricky to remove as the release tab isn’t straightforward, I used a tiny screwdriver and jiggled it around till it came loose. The factory hose clamps (2) are crimped on, but if you can find the tail end you can work them loose with a screwdriver by prying the tail up from the body of the clamp. Once you have the electrical connector and the two clamps removed, the pump comes of easily with a twisting motion. The new wash motor came with new clamps (2 extra). When sliding the rubber boots on the new pump in place, it will require a twisting motion to position it correctly, make sure (I didn’t and had to go through the whole process twice) that the rubber boot is not folded under on the bottom where it’s hard to see. Tighten clamps carefully and don’t over tighten. Plug in electrical connector and you’re ready to reinstall dishwasher.

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

Replaced motherboard, parts select,very helpful in helping diagnose problem! Exchanged parts, credit account after returned parts. Great customer service All good stuff! They brought their A game for this diy-er...

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.

The replacement of the parts was simple enough, but the board appears to need a jumper which was not in the original board.

The start button works, but beeps three times and doesn’t start the washer

Simple! I removed the flatware tray and pulled out the old rack assembly. Rolled in the new one and replaced the tray. Not really a "repair" per se but a needed replacement.