DDT595SSJ5SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

- Removed standing water using shopvac
- Uninstalled dishwasher
- Hooked up hoses temporarily and ran dishwasher
- Cancelled wash cycle and started drain cycle - checked drain pump voltage at pump power cable - OK
- Measured drain pump windings and verified open circuit
- Ordered new drain pump
- Removed old drain pump and installed new unit
- Hooked up hoses temporarily and ran dishwasher - OK
- Re-installed dishwasher

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.

Watched YouTube video on how to diagnose problems. Once part was identified ordered from Partselect.com and replaced the user interface circuit board. Dishwasher is now working.

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

Pulled dishwasher out switch is on very bottom of pump housing, turned dishwasher on its back, took out 1/4" bolt holding on bottom of switch frame, took two very small screwdrivers and small picks to hold open switch clips, while switch was removed checked float for frew movement, put in new switch, removed screw drivers and picks checked to see all locked on new switch in position, replaced bottom plate and bolt, checked burner reset all good now dishwasher heats and drys!

Pretty easy repair, since I installed the DW, so knew how it went in,
turn off breaker, shut off & disconnect water, disconnect drain line into disposal, siphoned water out of bottom collection basin below sump filter.
Slid DW out from under counter & laid on it's side.

Glad I watched a YouTube video so I knew to pry open 1 of 2 crimp style hose clamps on the old drain pump, then made sense why this was a drain pump "kit" that included 4 or 5 standard band hose clamps.

Replaced latch

Not having to screw with the hose clamps is the advantage here!
Disconnect electric connection at motor.
Slightly bend tabs that hold the pump to motor, twist motor from volute.
Do this on old pump first to get a feel for how easy the tabs can be broken
Do same on the replacement pump, put new motor on, watch alignment
can be a bit tricky.

Took off the door and separated the two door pieces. Unscrewed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one.

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

I determined the guide rail on one side had broke when the white plastic bearings fell out of their track. I decided to replace both sides at the same time, so I ordered 2. They arrived quickly and I installed them and placed the middle rack back into the dishwasher. Went together fairly easily. I took pictures before removing the guides from the rack, so I would remember how to put the new ones back one when they arrived. Very happy with this DIY repair that easily would have taken much longer and would have been way more expensive! Thank you!