CDT706P2M4S1 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

Researched what others have posted about on Parts select. That really helped with the diagnosis! Took a chance on a $28 part. Repairman was going to charge $150 just to show up, then diagnose, leave for 2 months while waiting for the part, charge another $150 plus the part to fix…
Just had to pull out dishwasher far enough to take the water supply line off. Then the water inlet solenoid then 2 more screws and a 2 pronged plug reattach water supply then done! 15 minutes MAX!!!

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

I determined the guide rail on one side had broke when the white plastic bearings fell out of their track. I decided to replace both sides at the same time, so I ordered 2. They arrived quickly and I installed them and placed the middle rack back into the dishwasher. Went together fairly easily. I took pictures before removing the guides from the rack, so I would remember how to put the new ones back one when they arrived. Very happy with this DIY repair that easily would have taken much longer and would have been way more expensive! Thank you!

Just snap part in position quick to do.

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Followed instructions sent with wash arm kit replacement. Very easy.

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

Pulled washer out of space to access cables to the door. Removed moved the cables by stretching springs and unhooking cable from door. Disconnected wire from door to machine in body of machine. Opened door an lifed on an angle that allowed door to be lifted out of hinges. Unscrew and remove hinges on both sides. Remove by simply pulling them straight in direction of the bottom of the door. Then unscrew bolts on either side that are now exposed after taking hinges out. Then push inside of door up and remove. Unscrew the control board unit. Un plug cable to control board. Remove bezel cover. Then carefully unsnap unit case and remove board. Replace with the new board. However since this is a replacement part it must be configured for your machine. Instructions shou you the configuration. However where I ran into a problem was dining out how to set it. There were no switches. What I learned was that altouch it looked like one piece the jumper connections actually were four separate pieces that were tightly fitted together. In order to get the configuration you simply have to lift the jumper connector up. Once done reverse process and your done. If I did not run into that one issue repair time should be 30 minutes tops.

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

Due to the almost zero clearance between the recirculating pump and the floor, getting the pan to line up and engage the tabs on the dishwasher frame can seem to be an impossible task. I did accomplish the task as instructed in the owners installation manual once.

However, I observed that the leak was just a drop at a time only on the deep clean mode where water recycling was in constant use during a long wash cycle. So, I recommend to slide the pan in the relative position without trying to engage the tabs and you will still accomplish the reason for the leak pan. Remember, the purpose of the Leak Pan is to protect your floor, so use it the easy way as I am.

The repair was just like the video that the agent sent me. And while I had the unit out of the cabinet I installed a part I have had for months which I ordered before I realized I had to take the unit out of the cabinet: the part was the seal for the bottom of the door. I recommend if you are ordering a pump order this part too an it is easy to install if you already have the dishwasher out of the cabinet.

Bought replacement rack transferred all the accessories from the old to the new. Mostly snap-in-place.

Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!

This was so easy! Our 4 year-old dishwasher began making a repetitive, clunking noise during wash cycle, and I deducted that it was the spray arms. I tried to rinse out old
spray arms, checked for clogs, and made sure they were installed correctly. The sound persisted, so I ordered replacement part (wash arm kit). I removed old spray arms and attached new ones. Problem solved and dishwasher is quiet again!