GSD4010Z04AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

First I removed the two screws that hold the solinoid in place,then I removed the e clip and unpluged the wire and pulled out the plastic lever with the solinoid and springs. To install Solinoid:First I bolted on the bracket ,then I hooked in the spring in the plastic lever and installed lever on shaft then I hooked in the long spring to the bracket small hole in the bottum then I installed the e clip next I pluged in the wire.Then I tried the Washer .Averthing works fine.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

Bulk of time was spent in diagnosis, eliminating other possible causes for the problem, such as wall switch and door switch and timer -- done with multi-meter.

Replacement of the control module was relatively easy, but **IMPORTANT TIP** Be sure to pull the specific model jumper wire from the old control module and re-attach it to the new replacement module. Otherwise, you'll just get a continuous blinking "clean" light and the dishwasher will not operate at all.

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

Removed the 4 screws on front inspection plate and had easy access to solenoid switch. Unplugged unit and switched out with repair kit. So easy a caveman could do it...

I removed 2 screws a wire plug connector and replaced the old part. The total repair including putting the cover plate back on only took about 15 minutes. Also I saved approximately $130.00 by doing this repair my self.

I removed the end caps on the two side tracks using pliers. I pulled out the old rack and inserted the new one. I replaced the end caps and I was done. It was that simple.

First let me say, it's so easy even a caveman can do it. I removed the water out of the bottom. Then I removed the cover in the very back of the machine with a wrench. As soon as I did that, I could see the piston. Next, I twisted the white piston out with my fingers (this was the hardest part). I could see the piston had partially disintigrated. I ordered a new one, had it delivered in a few days, and put it all back in reverse. It took minutes. Thanks to the guy that posted his story, I was able to fix mine for $18.

First I opened the dishwasher and removed the lower basket. Next I removed the 4 screws that hold the food filter plate in place at the back of the tub. Then I unscrewed the Piston/Check Valve assembly counterclockwise, located at the back center of the tub, by hand. I replaced the old part with the new one and reinstalled the filter plate. I ran a rinse cycle to verify that that all of the water was purged. Finally, I reinstalled the lower basket and resumed using my dishwasher.

removed screen at back of dishwasher from the inside. Twisted piston & nut assembly out by hand and replaced with new one. Very, very simple. Dishwasher works perfectly now.

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

Removed filter screen with the socket set, removed the piston and nut assembly with pliers, and installed the new piston and nut assembly. Put filter screen back in with hex head screws. During the process, I opened the float regulator and cleaned it out too. Water backup problems solved.

As per instructions from this site I simply unscrewed the entire assembly and installed the new spray arm assembly. The old unit was a bit stubborn due to age so I used the long handle of my favorite screwdriver, inserted through the bottom area, for leverage. The entire process took less than 5 minutes. Very simple and as a side benefit, the dishwasher operates much quieter than before the old spray arm broke. Guess the old arm was also worn out before it broke on this 18 year dishwasher.

First I removed the bottom dishwasher rack. Using a 1/4" nutdriver I removed (4) 1/4" screws from the drain cover that is inside the dishwasher all the way in the back. This will allow you to get to the piston and nut assembly which was easily removed with no tools by simply grasping and unscrewing. Used a wash cloth to wipe "gunk" from around the threads. I then screwed the new piston and nut assembly in place. Used no tools to tighten, just "snug up" by hand. The seal on my old piston and nut assembly was 50 percent gone, not sealing at all. I guess the years had taken their toll. This solved my problem. The dishwasher washes and drains as it should. Super easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes to do the repair.