DDT595SBL4TS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled dishwasher out switch is on very bottom of pump housing, turned dishwasher on its back, took out 1/4" bolt holding on bottom of switch frame, took two very small screwdrivers and small picks to hold open switch clips, while switch was removed checked float for frew movement, put in new switch, removed screw drivers and picks checked to see all locked on new switch in position, replaced bottom plate and bolt, checked burner reset all good now dishwasher heats and drys!

1. Turned off circuit breaker
2. Pulled out dishwasher
3. Disconnected switch and popped out switch
3. Popped in new switch and connected
4. Pushed dishwasher back into place
5. Turned on circuit breaker
6. Turned on dishwasher and it worked

Simply pick the basket up to slide wheels onto axles and push in until they lock in place.

Pretty easy repair, since I installed the DW, so knew how it went in,
turn off breaker, shut off & disconnect water, disconnect drain line into disposal, siphoned water out of bottom collection basin below sump filter.
Slid DW out from under counter & laid on it's side.

Glad I watched a YouTube video so I knew to pry open 1 of 2 crimp style hose clamps on the old drain pump, then made sense why this was a drain pump "kit" that included 4 or 5 standard band hose clamps.

I watched a YouTube video that showed how to to do this. The first trick is finding the right video. This one worked best for me / my model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesf0BS8fzM

The first few I watched were for models with the user display on the top of the door, and you have to open the dishwasher to see it. Mine shows the display on the outside. Look for the video that has a round plastic "vent" on the inside of the door. You will have to loosen it with some sort of tool in order to remove the display once you get the door taken apart. In the video, they used needle-nose pliers opened wide. My NN pliers don't open that wide, so I used two screw drivers. Pealing off the display is a bit challenging. I was afraid I was going to break the little plastic pins that hold it on. The rest is not too hard though, and it went back together quite easily, even though I did break a plastic piece that 0ne of the UI Control Board screws goes into. Oh well, now it has three screws holding it instead of four.

Downloaded the GE manual from the internet. Followed the GE repair manual trouble shooting guide. The manual contains all of the disassembly and reassembly instructions. Main board had a more than one volt higher than listed voltage output. Manual does not list an acceptable voltage range so I ordered a new main board. New board had the same output and did not fix the problem. I ordered a new UI board. The new board is a genuine GE "programable" replacement board that covers multiple models.
I set the indicated jumper to the required position for my application and installed it. The problem was not corrected. I read that some people had problems with defective replacement boards so I contacted PartSelect to return the first two boards and reordered the UI board.
I once again set the jumper and installed the UI board and it worked immediately.
The whole repair was extremely easy. PartSelect is very good to work with. I had no problems with returns or refunds. I will definitely use them again if I have the need for any of their products. There were slightly cheaper suppliers, but PartSelect had the parts I needed in stock and they shipped my order lightning fast. They are more than worth the few extra pennies difference.

Took off the door and separated the two door pieces. Unscrewed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one.

It took longer to uninstall and reinstall the dishwasher than it did to change out the part

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

Followed instructions sent with wash arm kit replacement. Very easy.

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

The repair instructions were great and the repair went well. The repair took less than an hour.

Thank you
Gary

Just snap part in position quick to do.