EDW3000G00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old rack replaced with new one which was an exact duplicate. Mama's happy; everybody's happy.

First I opened the package and screwed the new dispenser cap into place.

Turn off power at breaker box.
Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top.
Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line.
Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center.
Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out.
Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary.
Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.

The symptom was that none of the dishwashers light came on – it was totally dead
With this repair the important thing was making sure I was replacing the right part. I also tested parts in order to avoid disassembling more than I needed. I checked the following:
1. Circuit breaker
2. Electricity was getting to the connection box underneath the dishwasher. (Require removing panels between DW door and floor).
3. Next I disassembled the DW inner door and checked the switch. Power was getting to the switch. When depressed, power was go on both sides of switch.
4. I pulled out the electronic control assembly (ASM) and checked that power was getting to the ASM; it was. (Note: be careful about what you touch, there is 110 volts out in the open).
5. I pulled the ASM from the enclosing plastic box that surrounds it. I looked at the circuit board to trace where power went from the connector. Not surprisingly, it went through a fuse then to a transformer.
6. I checked the fuse two ways: I checked it hot: power was getting through the fuse. I also unplugged the power and checked the resistance. The fuse was good.
7. Set the Volt-Ohm meter back to 300 Volts AC range – do not risk putting 110 volts into the ohms setting.
8. 110 volts was getting to the primary side of the transformer. There was no voltage on the other side.
9. I unplugged the power and checked the resistance of the primary side of the transformer. It was “open” – meaning a wire is broken inside the transformer.
10. This confirms the problem in on the ASM board. If I knew the voltage on the secondary of the transformer and radio-shack had such a part I guess I could try unsoldering it and replacing it. But I didn’t know that and there were signs of water corrosion on the board so I replaced it.
11. PartsSelect made the look up easy. Delivery was fast. The DW now works again.

Removed door panel. Removed old door seal and cleaned seal recess. Installed new seal. Replaced door panel on door and ran a cycle to check for leaks. Readjusted door latch to correct small leak. Ran another leak test. Job complete and wife is happy!

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.

REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.

Removed seven screws that held the inside panel to door. removed inside panel to work area and cleaned. After carefully observing the position of the old gasket, it was easily removed and the new one but in its place. Replaced the door being careful toalign the handle before tightly securing all seven screws. Repair worked, no more leak.

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

Simply screwed in new cap

Read directions. They were poorly drawn. Set them aside. Opened up unit on December 26th. I made careful observation of the wiring, two hoses, one metal bracket, the hose two clamps, and then proceeded. Instructions said 1 to 2 hours, to complete. Ha Ha, perhaps if you've done it before. It was actually really closer to four hours. When done, it worked perfectly. The best part, my wife said: "This was the best Christmas present ever!" That made my day! Dishes are clean again, just like new! Thank you: www.PartsSelect.com.

Looked up possible causes on your website. Website stated that more than 50% of time the cause was the piston and nut assembly. Removed the piston and nut assembly in bottom of unit behind screen on rear wall and saw that the gasket seal was completely gone . Ordered the part. took less than 10 minutes to install. Tested the unit and it drained completely. Thank you as i was looking at a more difficult repair if the pump had to be replaced.Repair cost less than $20.00.Before changing piston and nut assembly I cleaned the strainer and sump. disconnected drain hose and checked for blockage . i than checked your website that listed the piston assembly as the culprit more than 50% of the time. Thanks again

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

Unscrewed old one and installed the new one.