SD4920X66BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

I removed the scews holding the inside door to the outside door section. Once removed I removed the 2 screws that held the switch to the door. After removing this switch I had to open it up to expose the four wires on the switch. I reattached the four wires to the new switch closed it up and placed it on the door with the 2 screws.
Replaced the inside door. Job finished with the switch working and the dishwasher operating as per the factory standards.
Very easy job and by doing it myself I saved money on a service call.

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

I simply removed the front toe kick panels.
The solonoid is staring you in the face.
I removed the small nuts on back side of the solonoid bracket and removed the retaining clip and springs.
I installed the new solonoid and was very surprised how easy it was.

I DID turn the power OFF at the breaker panel prior to starting the repair.

I first removed four screws holding the two cover panels attached to the dishwasher front at the bottom. Next I removed the broken cable and put everything back together that had sprung apart when the cable broke. Then I inserted the two door springs ends into the cable slots. Next I pulled on the springs to create slack and attached the cable / eyelet assembly to the protruding tab on the dishwasher frame. After attaching both sides the door works perfectly.

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

I disconnected the electrical wires. Then disconnected the support strut and the two hose clamps. I was then able to remove the motor /pump assy where I completed the disassembly of the solenoid linkage and pump assy. I removed the solenoid shaft seal. I disassembled the impella parts & the motor shaft seal. I reassembled using new seals, impeller, and grader nut. The only tricky step was waking up to the fact of a left handed thread on the grader nut. I re-installed the motor/pump unit, tightened the hose clamps, connected the electrical wires, & support strut.

The newly purchased wheels have a little different design and could be installed in a matter of few seconds.

We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

Turn off power at breaker box.
Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top.
Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line.
Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center.
Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out.
Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary.
Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.

installed part on inside end of rail. no tools needed. original part wouldn't stay on rail. finished in 2 minutes
wife happy

Inserted wheels on socket and then into the dishwasher rack.

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.