ADW1100NB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed existing gasket seal on door. Cleaned really well with a household cleaner around the gasket crease. Installed new gasket seal around door. Started with small notch in the middle of the gasket to center on top and then slowly fastened into door edge and slowly snug around bottom edge where the deal is notched and the the difficult part was to feel the seam again on the bottom to re attach seal after notch from corner. Rupert this on the other side of door.

Repair was really easy just like the repair video, but you have to lay on the floor. Unfortunately, the problem wasn't the solenoid, but the pump/motor assembly. Be sure to check the solenoid operation before replacing (making sure it is cycling). It might be the pump/motor assembly. Good luck!

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

Check website, order part. Hardest part was determining which was the right part. Needed the axle--I call it the hanger. I had previously called and ordered, but only received the wheel with no way to attach it. Push the axle into the wheel. Push the axle onto the rack. Since it was new, it didn't slip right on, and had to push it hard. (However, when it snapped on, three of the other wheels and axles came off.) Had to put them back on as well. Much easier, as they were older and not as snug. Total time: Took longer to open the package than put it on.