PDW8900NB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced interlock assembly as one of the possible causes. The replacement was easy, but this was not the final fix. I also replaced the water inlet valve, flood switch and finally found that there was large calcification within the drain tube assembly (not visible, but was blocking water). Got a new flexible tubing and new drain hose, plugged everything together and the dishwasher runs like new now. Watching for a potential leak from the drain tube to drain hose connection and mya need to tape it up, but so far so good...

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

Pull out the old, died gasket. Clean out track that holds gasket. insert new gasket.

The entire flat side of the end cap, (with the cutout latch), goes on the outside of the guide bar. It took less than 15 seconds to insert. It took about 30 minutes of searching for videos and playing around with the part to figure this out. A simple diagram would have been helpful.

Purchased new $1400 dishwasher from sales floor for $699. Cosmetically perfect, but missing drain tube and clamp. Seemed like a good deal... and it was. Needed parts were $34. Install of this machine was a breeze, and it is suoer quiet...I need to get down on the floor and listen for water flow to know that it's working. Really.

My husband was able to remove the wheels that were bending from the dishwasher rack. Then, he replaced the wheels with new ones and used new studs to hold the wheels in place.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Thought it might be check flapper valve on drain pump, so I replaced fairly easily, per instructions. When doing, I noticed the attached relay wires were not secure. When it was on the drain cycle one of the relay wires vibrated badly and loosened the connection enough to only work occasionaly. Would like to put new relay on the pump but they do not sell separately from the pump. (one assembly). I resecured connection and will wait till relay gives out and buy new assembly, but for now it's working perfectly!

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-k0iZGwMOGc
And then I did exactly what it said! It was easy. Plus, when I opened the panel I could see the old switch interlock assembly was melted on one side, so I knew I had gotten the right part!

Removed dishwasher from under counter. Removed both cable pulleys and bushings. Threaded new cables and remounted pulleys and bushings. Finally stretched springs onto cables. Checked counter balance and reinstalled dishwasher.

Removed the dishwasher to get at the defective parts and removed,than replaced the two check valves and reassemble.

Installed new roller which where larger than the original rollers. I believe these larger rollers will stop rack from slipping down near heating coils.
The new rollers snapped on with very litlle effort.