PDW7880JS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simple repair... Great Company, quick shipping (in CA had it the next day). Quality parts, GE OEM!! And to top it off the lowest prices!!

All I had to do is take out the rack, pop off the old wheels, place the new stud rollers on, then pop on the new wheels. So easy and now my dishes don't get chipped when I pull the rack out and push it back in. I wish I didn't wait so long to order new parts.

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Pull old rack out, slip new one in!
One thing i did was order wheels and studs as i was unaware they lower rack came fully equiped with all wheels,studs, and flip up dish dividers. So if your replacing the rack no need to order the wheels! The diagram made it look as if you only et the wire rack and not all the added pieces.

I removed the old wheels & studs on the right side of the bottom rack of the dishwasher, and I gleefully THREW THEM ALL OUT! HA HA!

Then I put the nice new rollers on the studs, and then I put them on the rack.

Helpful hints for others beleaguered by this design problem:

1) Be sure to get new studs - that's the part that kept causing the wheels to fall off

2) Put the rollers on the studs before putting them on the rack. (Another user on this site noted that, and it was very helpful).

3) P.S. Very prompt shipping, great service - I will definitely use this company again. And thanks to whoever dropped a cheerful Christmas candy into the box!!

Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.

The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.

tormented by the wheels falling off the lower rack in the dishwasher, had to lift it in and out when loading, then it would get hung up and not enter straight. a real pain in the @$%.
i was so happy to find parts select, and see that other people had the same problem. i ordered the new wheels and modified clip. shipping was really fast. took off the older ones and replaced them. when my husband came home and saw i fixed it myself, he was astonished. no more fighting the rack. smooth and better than new. thx parts select!!

You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.

You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)

Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.

1. Replacing the TUB GASKET is very easy and does not require tools. Pull out the old gasket and wipe out the channel. The gasket is marked with a small paint mark at the center and that indicates where to start at the top. The larger part of the gasket goes towards the outside. Firmly press the gasket all the way into the channel. The gasket should just reach the bottom of the tub. Do not use tools or you may damage the gasket. The gasket must be nearly all the way into the channel or the door will not close. Expect the door to close quite firmly for the first few uses.

2. Replacing the DOOR BOTTOM SHORT SEAL. This repair is not technically difficult, but is physically difficult. Without complete removal of the door, nothing needs to be or can be taken apart to do this replacement. I recommend removal of the lower basket, the upper basket and the wash arm before beginning. A drop light inside the tub is helpful. Using pliers or vise-grips grab the old seal and bend up and down then back and forth until it will slide all the way to one side. Once to one side use pliers to bent towards the back until its snap seal (observe new seal) realeases and you can carefully continue by hand to remove the seal the rest of the way across the bottom of the door. Observe how the old seal came out and which side was UP. With the new seal in hand, gently work the snap seal open slightly (this will help to get it back in place). With a flashlight and inspection mirror, check where the new seal will attach to (and clean if necessary). Center the new seal with the correct side up and work from one end. You may need pliers to push in the new seal, but be very careful not to damage the new bottom seal soft part. When it snaps in place you are done.

Very supprised and the quick delivery. Ordered it the afternoon and received the very next day.

Disconnect the power and the water supply. The drain line was plenty long enough. Pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet and turned on its side. Lousened the two hose clamps holding the pump in place. Removed the two screws holding the pump to the housing and the electrcal connections to the old pump. Cleaned the internal parts of the hose connections for the placement of the new pupmp and installed. Connected the pump to the housing of the dishwasher and fastened the electrical connections to the body of athe new pump. Placed the dishwasher into the cabinet and connected the main power and connected the water supply. Turned on the power and ran thru a cycle. LIKE NEW.

Thank you for your help. Fred

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy

Once upon a kitchen dreary.
Washing dishes made me weary.
All the dishes would not clean.
Gunk clogged up my filter screen.
The lower spray arm stuck and rattled.
With flying muck my dishes battled.
The muck had won and I had lost.
The repairman said it would really cost.
And so I did a google search.
Partselect got me out of a lurch.
Correct parts were easy to choose
and service so quick I couldn't lose.
I took off the old parts and tightened the new
No tools were needed my fingers flew.
And now my dishes come out clean
I feel competent and frugal, you know what I mean?