GLD4300MB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

For those of you that have this problem, please note that there may be three arms to your dishwasher, not just two. I also recommend calling this company to make sure you get the right part...there was no picture for the parts I needed.

I took the bottom plate off by removing 1 screw on each side. I then pulled the water inlet valve out, disconnected the 2 wires. Because mine was the original inlet valve and GE changed the new one I had to remove the new inlet valve from the face plated and use the old face plate. I then reveresed everything and put it back together and Wah Lah the dishwaher was fixed!!

It was an install. My problem is that the drain tube is not standard to other dishwashers,so I could not get it at either of the local home improvement centers. The good news is that it is larger than the standard, and offers better discharge.

Simple as 1,2,3.Parts on time and priced right.

problem solved..thanks

Dishwasher was not filling with water so I assumed the Water Inlet Valve was the problem. I replace the valve but still had the same problem. Studying everything I noticed another problem. The Drain Solenoid which I had replaced 9 months earlier was closed. The plunger was in the down position but must be in up position while washer is filling.
Water was pumped out as soon as it came in. I removed the Drain Solenoid and found the plunger securly stuck inside the plastic cylinder. I forcefully removed it. I knew the solenoid was probably OK because it jerked during the drain cycle. I put emery cloth around a dowel rod and sanded inside the plastic cylinder until plunger moved freely. I smoothed inside with wet or dry sandpaper. After re-installing the solenoid the dishwasher works great. My only explanation is the solenoid has a design flaw and that heat from the solinoid must expand the plastic inward over time.

First, remove the bottom front covers (two parts four screws). Second, remove the two screws at the top that secure the dishwasher to the counter. Third, gently pull away the dishwasher from underneath the counter just far enough to see and be able to remove the door spring(s) - one on each side. Fourth, remove the existing hinge arm link(s) if not already broken off, replace with the new one(s). Note that the door hinge goes on the door (front) side of the spring and the other side fits into a groove on the door arm - the other end of the spring attaches to one of the 3 available holes on the frame at the bottom. It would be a good idea to replace the hinge arm links on both sides even if only one is broken. Make sure that the door has the right tension (each spring can be hooked in 1 of 3 holes to adjust the tension). Then gently push the dishwasher back under the counter. Finally, replace the screws under the counter and replace the covers on the bottom front. All of this should take no more than 15-20 minutes. This was an easy job!

replaced new wheels

Self

I removed the old valve with wrench and Philips screw driver.Unscrewed the mounting plate and water hose. When I went to replace the new water inlet valve, I found that there was a mismatch on the screw holes for the new mounting plate. Different screw threads. I tried to find screws that would fit, but didn't have any.So I manged to make the old screws re-thread themselves and hold the plate in place. I then attached the water hose and started the dishwasher up. Make sure to power off the unit then power it back on to clear and reset the programming. Works great now.

First I removed the 8 screws on the interior side of the door that holds the plastic inner-face to the door assembly. This allowed me to easily pry the inner face away from the outer face which exposed the latch assembly.

The broken latch practically fell out making it very easy to work the new one into place.

I replaced the 8 screws, closed the door until I heard it latch and then squeezed the handle and was rewarded with a very satisfying sound and feel as the door popped open without a hitch.

I know a repairman would have cost me a minimum of $75 plus a hefty price for the part.

Simply replace wheel

I replaced the entire Water Inlet Valve. The part was perfect and fixed the problem. The only difficulty was the brass elbow connection that connects to the incoming water line had plumbing putting that connected it to the old Water Inlet Valve. I had to get a couple of large adjustable wrenches to take it off. I needed it as I didn't want to buy another one. I was thankful that I had some extra plumbing putty on hand to seal the threads when I put the brass elbow back on the new Water Inlet Valve. That saved me a trip to the hardware story. All in all, I'm very pleased that I was able to fix this myself. I'm not exactly a Mr. Fixit, so this was a good experience.

removed the rack and snapped the 4 week/axle assemblies on rack by hand pressure returned rack to track.

so easy! Ordered the rollers and clips ... popped them on and done!!!