DGBD2438PF5A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced drain pump. It helped some but still hear some squealing. I suspect the main pump might be worn as well. The drain pump did have some "looseness" to it compared to the new part.

#1 rule, make sure you valve off the water before removing any hoses. Remove wire trays inside dishwasher and then pull out dishwasher far enough to disconnect water line and power cord. Remove center piece and screen covering sump inside the dishwasher. Turn dishwasher on its side and remove hoses to sump and pump. Disconnect power to sump pump. Loosen retaining nuts that secure the sump and remove. Replace old gasket on sump with new. Turn dishwasher upright. Be careful with placement of new gasket when reinserting sump so that the gasket doesn't come out of position and the sump is centered properly. Secure with retaining nuts from bottom. Reconnect power connector and hoses to sump. Pour enough water into the dishwasher to verify gasket doesn't leak... look with flashlight under dishwasher for signs of water dripping from sump. Reinstall screen and centerpiece in sump inside the dishwasher. Reconnect water line and power cord. Run through wash cycle while monitoring for leaks under dishwasher. Reinstall wire trays.

Piece of cake as long as you get the gasket installed properly and the sump centered correctly... do not overtighten the retaining nuts or it may force the gasket out of position when the screen is secure with the center locking piece over the sump.

Slid dishwater out from cabinet, replace cable, slid unit back in , secure ---done! door has tension now.

Very, very easy. Pop off the old wheels and snap the new ones into place on the rack.

Removed 6 screws from door front panel. Removed two wiring connectors and screws fromdoor latch Replaced and all is great

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

The door seal comes off easy. No need to take apart the door. The new seal fits snug. Make sure the notch on the right side of the door seal is installed to the right side of the bottom of door

I left the unit in place. I removed the bottom cover, unplugged power from GFI receptacle and closed water supply valve. I unplugged the electrical connection. I put a dishtowel under water inlet valve and removed water supply. I removed two screws from inlet valve bracket that allowed me to rotate the valve and used pliers to remove water hose clamp and hose. I installed the new valve in reverse order. I checked for leaks; found none. Life is good again!

First I removed the two screws that hold the dishwasher in place, I pulled out the dishwasher and on the bottom right located the leak. The two brass nuts that hold the heating element in place. The wires had been rusted to the element so I cut the wires (and later spliced them back together) and unscrewed the brass nuts. I ordered the part after finding them very easily on partselect.com and 2 days later screwed them back on to the dishwasher. Spliced the wires back together and put the dishwasher back in place.

Easy Fix.

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

Removed 6 torx headed screw (loosens the internal control panel) and 2 philips headed screws(allows for front door panel removal). 2 torx screws had to be removed from existing latch along with 2 plugs loosened, be aware of how the plugs were connected to the latch. Do the reverse; attach plugs to new latch and reattach latch with the 2 torx headed screws. The 6 torx screws reattach the control panel and the 2 philips screws reattach the front door panel (be sure the front door panel is properly aligned prior to installation of the philips screws).

After shutting off power to the dishwasher, I removed the two screws holding the door cover on the inside of the door sides, about 8 inches from the bottom of the door. I slid the cover down and off, and unplugged the wires to the dispenser. Then I removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, removed the old dispenser, installed the new one, replaced the six screws and plugged the wires back in. The door cover and the two screws was all that was left. It took about ten minutes. Easy.

It only took about 20 minutes to replace. Thanks for the video.

Remove the lower dish tray and set aside. Remove two Phillips screws on each side of inner liner, then close door. You should then be able to slip off the external facing (set aside). Pull lower gasket toward tub until fully removed. Reinsert the new gasket into the same tight slot, making sure that the notch inserts into the slot and the flexible gasket runs the full length of the tub. The gasket should bow out slightly toward the tub. Also make sure that the side seals do not interfere with the bottom seal fully mating with the floor of the tub. Close the door and check to make sure the lower gasket reveal is the same across the length of the inner liner. Reinstall the dish tray, then reinstall the external facing, using the same four Phillips screws to secure. Test sealing by running a short cycle on the dishwasher.

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!