FBD2400KW8B Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Remover the cracked heating element with the new heating element.

First remove the kick plate.
Then look with a flashlight & mirror to make sure which, the spring and or the Spring Linkage are broken.
With the door open, to have less tension on the spring, replace the spring and or the spring linkage.
Attach the kick plate

I followed the steps on YouTube.

NOTE: I am a complete amateur, and had NEVER attempted to work on my own appliances before this. Diagnosis via web search determined that the drain pump was the most likely problem. PartSelect.com had the best prices and, as it turned out, the fastest delivery. I shut off the power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and turned off the water supply under the kitchen sink. I took all of the removable parts out of the dishwasher (lower rack, spray arm, strainer), and using a shop-vac, I emptied the water that had pooled at the bottom of the dishwasher. I removed the kickplate (2 screws) to disconnect the water line (pliers) and the drain hose clamp (flat screwdriver). Both of these had some water in them, so I used one of a few shop towels that I had handy to keep things dry. Opening the dishwasher gave me access to the screws that anchor the unit to the countertop, which I removed (phillips screwdriver). Loosening the adjustable feet and gently rocking the dishwasher dislodged it to the point where I could remove it, but not before laying cardboard down to protect the kitchen floor. Once removed, I flipped the unit over and disconnected the old drain pump's electrical leads, noting which one went where. Three star-shaped screws held the drain pump in place - one of which was difficult to get to, due to the size of my driver and the location of the main motor. I removed/replaced the pump, connected the electrical leads, flipped the dishwasher upright, and slid it back under the countertop. I re-extended the adjustable feet and made sure everything was level front-to-back and side-to-side before securing the two screws through the tabs into the countertop. Under the unit, I reconnected the water line, turned the supply back on, and checked for leaks. I reconnected the drain hose and then turned the power back on at the circuit breaker. I did a quick test run of the unit and not only did it drain properly, but there were no visible leaks. I will reinstall the kickplate in a week or so, after I can run a couple loads of dishes and ensure that there are no issues under the unit. With a small amount of web searching, some great help from the PartSelect crew, and a bit of fortitude, I saved hundreds of dollars and have a far better understanding of how my dishwasher works. That's a win-win in my book!!

I pulled out the dishwasher and found the inlet tubing had a tear in the accordion part of the tube. I searched online for the model number and was directed to PartSelect. I ordered the inlet tubing, and it only took a few days to get to me. I then watched the video and was able to install the new tubing.

PartSelect is a life saver and I saved lots of money by not having to call a repairman.

Just take you time take pictures of wires watch utube

We pulled the dishwasher out enough th expose the sides where the springs are attached. We removed the oldsprings and attached the new ones. Then put the dishwasher back in place.

Removed the screws holding the dishwasher in the counterspace. Pulled it out far enough to re-attach the new spring, scoot it back in place, and put the screws back to hold it in, and attach the plate to the bottom that was taken out first. Good to go.

So easy it shouldn't even count as a repair, really. The dishwasher, there when I bought the place, had a lower rack that wouldn't roll out as it should. That's because there were no wheels on the left side.

The rack lifts out easily. These wheels snap on to small protrusions from the wire rack.

Snapped the new one in. One second repair - like new.

I pulled out the dishwasher removed the two heating element insulated wires and removed both threaded brass nuts and replaced them both. Problem solved. Luckily I have a local parts and repair store with a repairman that knows every part of every appliance ever made (no kidding, I have yet to stump him with a part or question). He did not have the parts, told me to go to partselect.com order two nuts, replace them both at the same time, and fix it myself because its an easy repair and not worth paying hundreds of dollars, if you can use a wrench. He was right, and partselect.com had the right parts, at the right price, easy to find and order, and I can impress the wife with my repair skills. Thanks again!

Never worked on a dishwasher before but quickly learned that on this particular one, it's only this thin little brass nut that tightens down the element from the underside of the washer. If not tight enough, water drips right down onto the electrical connections. In this case water began to drip and the heat from the electrical current began melting a clear rubber shield thing. Luckily I was home during the cycle and figured out the problem. Great website that seems to have all necessary parts for my washer. Quick shipment!

open dishwasher, pull out bottom rack, unscrew nut, install nut into sprayer arm, then with a clockwise motion screw sprayer arm with nut on to receiver until sprayer arm spins And nut is tightened. also i would like to thank PARTS SELECT FOR THE SPEEDY DELIVERY. THANK YOU

I snapped on the new roller and bingo! problem solved.

Two rollers on the lower rack were missing and one was flattened. I popped off the bad roller and snapped the three new rollers in place, all by hand. Took about 60 seconds.