FDB2830CEC0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

The spray arm comes off into 3 parts but is really only supposed to be one. I removed the nut from the old assembly and attempted to place the new assembly on by hand. The new nut seemed to be slightly smaller than the original so it would not attach to the dishwasher. Using a kitchen knife, I removed the new nut from the arm unit and attached the new arm to the original nut and it went back on easily. The connection of the new arm to the new nut was 3 tabs that needed to be depressed with the knife and was a different conection method than the assembly that kept coming off in the wash cycle. The replacement part had a much better design than the original.

Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pulled out about 1 foot. Took bottom plate off of dishwasher. Undid clamp on hose of discharge of inlet water valve and removed hose. Shut off water to water inlet valve and removed. Took wiring clip off of water inlet valve. Removed 2 screws holding water inlet valve in place. Installed new water inlet valve in reverse order.

Discovered upper wash arm had come off. It looked like it was repairable, but the bushing/clip holding the arm came off after one wash. Looked on line and reviewed part and saw it was a one piece assembly from photos. Removed old assembly by unscrewing from top of washer and screwed new assembly in place.

Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.

First turn the power off! If you have water in the tub, use something like a wet/dry shop vac to drain as much water out as possible. Removing the strainers will help get more out. To remove the smaller horseshoe shaped strainer, pull up and towards the handle. The sprayer is then removed by rotating the base of it slightly. Then you can remove the large strainer. The more water you get out the better! Then remove the kick panel. You will see the drain pump right in front of you with a white and a purple wire. Disconnect the wires by pulling their tabs towards you, and move them out of the way. With a screwdriver, loosen the worm clamp on top of the pump that connects the drain line to the pump. Have a towel handy, even if you got all of the water out, there will still be some in the line. Then take a pair of pliars (long nose may work best, or small channel locks) and compress the clamp on the black hose behind the pump, moving the clamp towards the center of the hose. The pump should now move a little. Pulling the pump towards you, wiggle slightly to try to remove the pump from its support, preferably without breaking the tabs, but keeping them intact is not critical if you are replacing the pump. More water may come out at this point, so be prepaired. Put the new pump in by reversing the process, making sure you do not break the support tabs. Slide the compression clamp into place. Reconnect and tighten the drain line, reconnect the white and purple wires. Dry your work area carefully so you can spot any leaks. Apply power, and run a rinse cycle, watching for leaks. If everything looks ok, kill the power again and reattach the kick plate. Turn power back on one last time, and enjoy your dishwasher again!

Removing the old rack was accomplished by removing the grey retainer clips located at the end of the silver rack guides. This allows the entire upper rack to slide out of the guide tracks. Unless you purchased all of the additional parts associated with the rack you must remove the needed old parts such as the spray arm, plate guides, wheel assemblies, etc. to complete the replacement and reassembly. Each of these pieces are "snapped on" by clips that are removed with moderate difficulty. Mostly due to the apprehension that you are going to break them, however, with only the pressure exerted by your fingers they will snap off and will go actually go back on easier. The order you remove and replace the various parts is your choice. The exact positioning of the parts back on the new rack is critical, so if your memory is not good, take a quick photo with your cell phone for reference. The only tool I used was a small screwdriver to separate the clip when I first removed the rack, but in retrospect I could have removed it by hand. The key thing to remember is do not apply excess force when trying to remove the old parts, just direct pressure with your fingers. Good luck, it took me only about 15 minutes from start to finish. The best part is I probably saved $150.00 by doing it myself, figuring service time for a repairman, plus his mark-up on the parts.

unscrewed front panel..then removed old latch and put one lead at a time on new latch so as not to get confused..( I did not unplug washer) replaced new latch installed panel..done..Less than 30 min

The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job

tossed the old one a replaced with a new.Hardest 10 second repair ever....It took 10 seconds had to open and close the door.

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter, flip it on it's side to gain access to the discharge hose attachment point, removeit, remove the other end of the hose from the sink-side and replace the hose. The sink-end of the hose has a 'collar' that must be cut to fit the fitting on the sink.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

New one snaps into place easily.

Unsnapped three clips in lower rack securing old fence in rack. Attached clips to new fence and snapped assembly back into rack.

Removed the clamp holding it to the floor and
removed the c-clips holding element underneath
and put new one in. Hard part was figuring out
what was holding the element but since I still
had the schematic drawing we figured it out.
Saved a bunch on a repairman. After watching
my friend install the new element I could probably
do it myself next time.

the pump was making some loud noise so i removed the bottom cover and the drain pump is right in the front the motor was hot the washer had water on the bottom so i started the washer hit the pump with a screw driver handle to get it started drained the water and used pliers to in still. not bad at all.