FDB1980RGQ2 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet space (two screws) and manually replaced both springs. I replaced one spring first to see if there would be an improvement when the second new spring was installed. There was much better tension once the second new spring was added.That is why changing both springs is recommended. This was very easy.
Changing the gasket was scary because I thought the the whole door would have to be taken apart. You know nothing ever goes back together the same. I feared that I would create an even bigger leak than what I had. Taken the door apart didnt work for me, so I just pulled the old gasket by hand and pressed in the new one. I made sure that it was seated correctly. Voila no leak.
The dishwasher is running as good as new.
I ordered these parts on Friday morning. They were on my door step Monday morning,
I highly recommend ordering from this site.

Removed the bottom panel on the unit (2 screws hold it on) and pulled the dishwasher out about 4"--after turning off electricity to the unit. Removed the broken spring and the old linkage and replaced them with the new parts. Pushed the diswasher back into place, and replaced the bottom panel. Turned on the electricity and the diswasher door is "good as new." This is quite simple to do; just takes patience.

Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.

I removed the old spray arm by pulling it off of the base then I pushed the new one on and made sure it was on properly then I pit the base back into the dishwasher and it was good as new!

All I had to do was take out old racks and replace with new ones. However the top rack did require taking off the part where the water runs through, it was easy though.

I would like to comment on how quickly and efficiently the parts arrived. I placed my order on a monday morning and am pleased to report by tuesday afternoon they arrived, much to my delight.

First turn the power off! If you have water in the tub, use something like a wet/dry shop vac to drain as much water out as possible. Removing the strainers will help get more out. To remove the smaller horseshoe shaped strainer, pull up and towards the handle. The sprayer is then removed by rotating the base of it slightly. Then you can remove the large strainer. The more water you get out the better! Then remove the kick panel. You will see the drain pump right in front of you with a white and a purple wire. Disconnect the wires by pulling their tabs towards you, and move them out of the way. With a screwdriver, loosen the worm clamp on top of the pump that connects the drain line to the pump. Have a towel handy, even if you got all of the water out, there will still be some in the line. Then take a pair of pliars (long nose may work best, or small channel locks) and compress the clamp on the black hose behind the pump, moving the clamp towards the center of the hose. The pump should now move a little. Pulling the pump towards you, wiggle slightly to try to remove the pump from its support, preferably without breaking the tabs, but keeping them intact is not critical if you are replacing the pump. More water may come out at this point, so be prepaired. Put the new pump in by reversing the process, making sure you do not break the support tabs. Slide the compression clamp into place. Reconnect and tighten the drain line, reconnect the white and purple wires. Dry your work area carefully so you can spot any leaks. Apply power, and run a rinse cycle, watching for leaks. If everything looks ok, kill the power again and reattach the kick plate. Turn power back on one last time, and enjoy your dishwasher again!

The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job

tossed the old one a replaced with a new.Hardest 10 second repair ever....It took 10 seconds had to open and close the door.

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter, flip it on it's side to gain access to the discharge hose attachment point, removeit, remove the other end of the hose from the sink-side and replace the hose. The sink-end of the hose has a 'collar' that must be cut to fit the fitting on the sink.

New one snaps into place easily.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

I watched the partselectrepair videos for tub gasket, bottom gasket, and splash shield. The instructions were very clear and easy to follow, thank you so much now I have a dishwasher that's good as new.

Pulled out old gasket and shield guards and put in new ones. No tools needed. Piece of cake??

Removed the clamp holding it to the floor and
removed the c-clips holding element underneath
and put new one in. Hard part was figuring out
what was holding the element but since I still
had the schematic drawing we figured it out.
Saved a bunch on a repairman. After watching
my friend install the new element I could probably
do it myself next time.

Grab the tab on the support and rotate 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to unlock it, then lift it off. The lower spray arm simply pops off the support by spreading two tabs underneath.

Align the opening in the lower spray arm support with the outlet post in the bottom and rotate 1/4 turn clockwise to lock.

*Note: direction to remove the filter basket differed from the manual. Visually line up the notches and do not twist too far when locking or you WILL break the retainer tabs.

Simply center the lower spray arm over the support and press down until it locks into place.