FDB1980RGC2 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Shut off power to the unit. Removed the screws located along the inside edge of the door, then lifted up slightly on the entire front panel to loosen it from the slotted guides. Be ready to brace the door as there are still some electrical connections that do not need removal to finish the job. Removed two screws that hold the latch assembly in place, leaving the four electrical leads in place (this takes a special screwdriver but I had an attachment with my socket set). Removed the leads one at a time and immediately placed them on the corresponding posts on the new latch (this was to make sure I got the right lead in the right spot). Once all leads were in place, reattached the latch assembly to the inside of the door. The only tricky part was getting the door lined up with the guides and sliding it back into its seated position. That took two people, but only a few tries and it fit. Put the screws back on, turn power back on. Done.

Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)

As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

Just swapped out the old with the new and it has been great. My wife is very happy and that make me very happy.

Remove water supply, take off two screws, attach new part reconnect water supply.

I ordered the replacement racks to replace the rusted ones that had been in my original Fridigaire. I had to take the wheels off the old Upper Rack and attach them to the new upper rack, which was quite easy since they just simply came off by hand with a little bit of pressure. I also needed to take off the spray arm & spray arm funnel in order to attach them to the new Upper Rack assembly. I had to unscrew the spray arm funnel then unattach (without tools) the base of the spray arm from the upper rack. Then I could simply reattach the spray arm base by hand and re-screw on the spray arm funnel onto the base that had been attached to the new upper rack. I also had to take off the Shelf from the old rack and attach it to the new one (which was easily done with a little bit of hand pressure to unattach the Shelf from the old rack). All of this was much easier than I expected it to be, and much easier than I'm explaining I'm sure! I was able to do these rack switches without any tools which was great!

Electrolux part number PS1524955, lower spray arm.

Problem. Dishwasher was spraying water out the bottom of the door. The spray arm was damaged when the heat shield overheated, causing the shield to contact the heating element. This resulted in the spray arm melting, causing water to be sprayed out the small gap between the dishwasher door, and the dishwasher bottom pan.

Repair
Lower spray arm is easy to remove. Release the arm clips at the center of the spray arm. When the clips are released, lift and remove damaged arm. Replacement arm is attached by pressing down on the center of the spray arm. The new unit has smaller heat shields so it will be less prone to overheating.

Thanks for the fast shipping. Part was recieved in a few days. For just a few dollars, the handwashing is over.

No repair, just replaced the lower rack. Your service is awesome. I received my shipment next day. Thank you so much. I will definitely use your service again.

Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.

Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.

I was able to pull out the top basket were the glasses are put then I lined up the back and the center plastic clip an slid on the center spray arm. It took about 2 miniutes

I replaced the basket. No tools necessary. New basket seems sturdier than original. Very satisfied with my purchase.

I installed the new spray arm without any tools and it worked perfectly.