MDB100RGD0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- David from Saint Michael, MN
- Parts Used:
- 809006501
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dishwasher door was leaking water at the bottom corners.
It took less than a minute to remove the old bottom door gasket - it pulls right out. You wouldn't think the part looks the way it does (a 1.5 inch wide plastic strip that runs the length of the door with rubber gaskets on both ends) but have faith. Trust the diagram/picture - it is the correct part and will fix the leak. The new gasket arrived within a couple days of ordering and was simple to install - no tools. It slides into place in less than a minute and is held in by friction. Problem solved and no more leaks. For under $12 (parts and shipping) I had my dishwasher fixed. A service call by itself would have run $75 - just for someone to show up at the house, and then probably another $50 for parts and labor to install. My wife made the comment "Even I could have fixed that". A very simple and easy repair - you can do it!!!
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- Customer:
- David from Las Cruces, NM
- Parts Used:
- 154637401
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
No water to dishwasher on any cycle
Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Souderton, PA
- Parts Used:
- 5304442175
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door latch was broken
It was easy to replace the latch. 4 screws to take the cover off... two star screws for the latch assy. and 4 wires. NOTE: be sure to kill the power to the washer
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- Customer:
- Marla from Columbia, TN
- Parts Used:
- 5304532229
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
plastic attachment for wheel to rack had dried and broken
removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple
Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!
Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!
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- Customer:
- Fred from Landis, NC
- Parts Used:
- 5304532229
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Missing 2 rollers in lower basket
Alighned the bracket and pushed in.
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Virginia Beach, VA
- Parts Used:
- 5304442175
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dishwasher won't start
Be aware that there is a Child Lock Control on this dishwasher. To unlock the controls, press the POWER DRY OFF/NO HEAT DRY pad for 5 seconds until the CONTROLS light goes out.
If that doesn't work then read on.
I noticed the plastic handle was very loose in its opening. So I removed the screws along the interior edge of the door to expose the Door Latch Assembly. (Be careful. The two lowest screws- closest to the hinges- hold the metal door trim panel in place after sliding the panel over two clips near the screws. If you don't hold the door panel it may fall and get scratched. Put a bath towel or rug on the floor to avoid scratching it.)
After removing the phillips head screws, (and keeping track of the different size lengths in each position) I found the plastic handle broken at its fulcrum with the loose parts rattling around the inside of the door. The microswitches that tell the control panel the door is closed were not being pressed when the door closed because the broken handle was loose. I orderd the part I needed, got it in 5 days and reopened the door. The Door Latch Assembly is held in place with two medium size TORX head screws. Just remove each of the 4 electrical connectors one at a time from the old door latch assembly (that includes a new plastic handle) and attach to the new switch in the same order you remove them. After reassembling, I had the machine running in just a few minutes.
If that doesn't work then read on.
I noticed the plastic handle was very loose in its opening. So I removed the screws along the interior edge of the door to expose the Door Latch Assembly. (Be careful. The two lowest screws- closest to the hinges- hold the metal door trim panel in place after sliding the panel over two clips near the screws. If you don't hold the door panel it may fall and get scratched. Put a bath towel or rug on the floor to avoid scratching it.)
After removing the phillips head screws, (and keeping track of the different size lengths in each position) I found the plastic handle broken at its fulcrum with the loose parts rattling around the inside of the door. The microswitches that tell the control panel the door is closed were not being pressed when the door closed because the broken handle was loose. I orderd the part I needed, got it in 5 days and reopened the door. The Door Latch Assembly is held in place with two medium size TORX head screws. Just remove each of the 4 electrical connectors one at a time from the old door latch assembly (that includes a new plastic handle) and attach to the new switch in the same order you remove them. After reassembling, I had the machine running in just a few minutes.
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- Customer:
- Ruth from Portland, OR
- Parts Used:
- 154325201, 5304532229
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
itmes breaking
One Roller detatched and hit the heat coil and melted. Both of the Spring Linkages borke. It's was quite obvious they were made not to last long. My Husband did the repairs. Thank you for asking.
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Found water leaking at bottom of door
1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.
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- Customer:
- William from Pittsburgh, PA
- Parts Used:
- 5304518927
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Spray Arm melted to heating elment
Removed old arm from elment. then replaced with new one.
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- Customer:
- Ron from Billings, MT
- Parts Used:
- 154637401
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
old valve leaked
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)
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- Customer:
- Dan from Las Cruces, NM
- Parts Used:
- 154637401
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
leaking dishwasher even when not in use
Remove water supply, take off two screws, attach new part reconnect water supply.
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- Customer:
- steve from virginia beach, VA
- Parts Used:
- 154773201
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No water to dish washer
After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.
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- Customer:
- John from Hummelstown, PA
- Parts Used:
- 154827601
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.
Water leak solved...
Water leak solved...
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- Customer:
- Ed from Columbus, OH
- Parts Used:
- 5304442175
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Door latch broken
Removed eight screws holding front panel to door; placed blanket below it beforehand based on tip read in another person’s post. Removed two screws holding switch in place and then transferred four wire connectors one at a time. Replaced latch assembly with two screws. Replaced front door panel by reinstalling eight previously removed screws then did a load of dishes.
I was impressed with the user friendly format of your web site. I was able to quickly look up the part I needed. It arrived much faster than I expected after my order was placed.
I have already recommended the site to a friend needing parts for a Gibson dishwasher.
I was impressed with the user friendly format of your web site. I was able to quickly look up the part I needed. It arrived much faster than I expected after my order was placed.
I have already recommended the site to a friend needing parts for a Gibson dishwasher.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Clinton, OH
- Parts Used:
- 809006501
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Leaking Door
Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.
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