FDB2321REC0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet space (two screws) and manually replaced both springs. I replaced one spring first to see if there would be an improvement when the second new spring was installed. There was much better tension once the second new spring was added.That is why changing both springs is recommended. This was very easy.
Changing the gasket was scary because I thought the the whole door would have to be taken apart. You know nothing ever goes back together the same. I feared that I would create an even bigger leak than what I had. Taken the door apart didnt work for me, so I just pulled the old gasket by hand and pressed in the new one. I made sure that it was seated correctly. Voila no leak.
The dishwasher is running as good as new.
I ordered these parts on Friday morning. They were on my door step Monday morning,
I highly recommend ordering from this site.

Make sure power is off. Remove metal toe kick with fillips screw driver. Reach under dishwasher with 1/2" open
end wrench and completly unscrew brass nuts from element ends. Then open door and pull element ends straight up. Note: As you pull element ends up (inside washer) you are also forcing the element end wire connectors to come off underneath. The electricial connectors are very hard to get off any other way.

Wendell Hensley
Madiso0nville, Tn

Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.

I removed the old spray arm by pulling it off of the base then I pushed the new one on and made sure it was on properly then I pit the base back into the dishwasher and it was good as new!

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. I then had to unscrew (from the bottom) the bolts that held the heater in place. After that I ran into a problem of disconnecting the wires that ran to the heater. I did not want to "force" the wires off and I was unsure how exactly to remove them. I figured out that they are really hard to pull off but there are no clips holding them on, so you won't break anything off. Once I got the wires off, I was able to screw the nuts onto the new heater and put it back into place.

Pulled the dishwasher out and laid it on its back. From under the dishwasher I unscrewed three screws and freed the drain pump from some sort of frame. Then with the pliers loosed the orange clamp that held the black hose to it. Then unscrewed the clamp that held the white hose to it. Then pulled out the purple and white fuse wires. These wires were very tight I used pliers to get them off. The pump was free. Be sure to have a bowl to catch all the water. There wasn't a lot but it stinks. Then put it all together the way I took it apart. The dishwasher works perfectly now.

Place spray arm into receptacle. Take nut and screw on being careful not to over tighten. This will strip the spray arm and the same problem will occur. Easy fix!

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, and ran to diagnose the problem. Drain pump ran, but circulating motor did not. Ordered the replacement circ pump / motor assy, and slid the washer back in its hole.
When the new motor arrived, I slid it back out, disconnected everything, and drained the water from the bottom. Then I tipped the washer on its side, removed the old motor and installed the new one following included instructions. I did have to use the new wiring harness, and found the new one had only two leads where the original had three. I connected the blue and white leads, and left the original green loose.
All in all, it was an easy repair that could be done by anyone with a basic set of skills.

unscrewed front panel..then removed old latch and put one lead at a time on new latch so as not to get confused..( I did not unplug washer) replaced new latch installed panel..done..Less than 30 min

The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job

tossed the old one a replaced with a new.Hardest 10 second repair ever....It took 10 seconds had to open and close the door.

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter, flip it on it's side to gain access to the discharge hose attachment point, removeit, remove the other end of the hose from the sink-side and replace the hose. The sink-end of the hose has a 'collar' that must be cut to fit the fitting on the sink.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

New one snaps into place easily.

Grab the tab on the support and rotate 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to unlock it, then lift it off. The lower spray arm simply pops off the support by spreading two tabs underneath.

Align the opening in the lower spray arm support with the outlet post in the bottom and rotate 1/4 turn clockwise to lock.

*Note: direction to remove the filter basket differed from the manual. Visually line up the notches and do not twist too far when locking or you WILL break the retainer tabs.

Simply center the lower spray arm over the support and press down until it locks into place.