GDPP4517AF0A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Spotted the source of the leak at the first heating element under the dishwasher. Removed the brass mounting nut and it was cracked. Replaced with new part from PartSelect.com and the leak was fixed. Apparently the heating element gets so hot it tends to crack the mounting nuts, which results in a leak. Delivery time for part said 3-5 days - mine arrived one day after ordered!

just pushed it into the crevice with my thumb

Remove old gasket from tub, soak new gasket in hot water for a few minutes then install starting from center top of tub, when done installing close door for 24 hours, then try to see if leak fixed.

Ditto the other comments. Easy, great savings. Perfect. Thank you!

very simply removed 2 clamps, replace hose, re-installed clamps

I woke up on Christmas Day to water pooling under the kitchen sink (I guess I made the naughty list last year). Upon inspection, I could see that the water connections for the faucet were damp. Since I had all the parts, I replaced the faucet and service lines. Once complete, there were no leaks so I turned on the dishwasher to double check for leaks in those lines. It was all dry when the dishwasher finished but the next morning, more water under the sink.
I proceeded to replace the water line to the dishwasher and ran it through another wash cycle. Still leaking.
I found PartsSelect online and order a new drain line for the dishwasher. To my amazement, FedEx dropped off my order the next morning........yes, the next morning.
It took five minutes to remove the old drain line and install the new one (just a worm clamp at each end). It would have been faster than that but I don't get up and down as fast as I use to.

on close investigation the problem was not the element ,but one of the brass nuts was fractured this was repaired and leakage was rectified. I .would add that your service and delivery was excellant and the unrequired element will be returned to you thanks

power off, take off kickplate, unplug 2 wires and unscrew broken nuts, put new nuts on, plug wires back in,(run dishwasher one cycle to make sure no leaks) put kickplate back on, power on.

Took the gasket off and put the new one on.

The repair went well,however I must comment on parts select. I do most of my work on the net, I have never had a company fill an order and ship the part so quickly I was amazed I had the part 3 days after I placed the order. Thanks

NOTE: I am a complete amateur, and had NEVER attempted to work on my own appliances before this. Diagnosis via web search determined that the drain pump was the most likely problem. PartSelect.com had the best prices and, as it turned out, the fastest delivery. I shut off the power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and turned off the water supply under the kitchen sink. I took all of the removable parts out of the dishwasher (lower rack, spray arm, strainer), and using a shop-vac, I emptied the water that had pooled at the bottom of the dishwasher. I removed the kickplate (2 screws) to disconnect the water line (pliers) and the drain hose clamp (flat screwdriver). Both of these had some water in them, so I used one of a few shop towels that I had handy to keep things dry. Opening the dishwasher gave me access to the screws that anchor the unit to the countertop, which I removed (phillips screwdriver). Loosening the adjustable feet and gently rocking the dishwasher dislodged it to the point where I could remove it, but not before laying cardboard down to protect the kitchen floor. Once removed, I flipped the unit over and disconnected the old drain pump's electrical leads, noting which one went where. Three star-shaped screws held the drain pump in place - one of which was difficult to get to, due to the size of my driver and the location of the main motor. I removed/replaced the pump, connected the electrical leads, flipped the dishwasher upright, and slid it back under the countertop. I re-extended the adjustable feet and made sure everything was level front-to-back and side-to-side before securing the two screws through the tabs into the countertop. Under the unit, I reconnected the water line, turned the supply back on, and checked for leaks. I reconnected the drain hose and then turned the power back on at the circuit breaker. I did a quick test run of the unit and not only did it drain properly, but there were no visible leaks. I will reinstall the kickplate in a week or so, after I can run a couple loads of dishes and ensure that there are no issues under the unit. With a small amount of web searching, some great help from the PartSelect crew, and a bit of fortitude, I saved hundreds of dollars and have a far better understanding of how my dishwasher works. That's a win-win in my book!!

First, I unplugged the dishwasher. After removing the under counter mounting screws, I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinets. Because the switch is hard to reach, I put the dishwasher on its side (very carefully). Make sure to drain the dishwasher first, or it will leak all over your kitchen. To remove the switch, I unscrewed the single black screw in the middle of the switch and unplugged the electrical wires. I put the new switch in its place, screwed in the screw, and plugged in the electrical connection. I set the dishwasher upright, and ran it through a cycle before reinstalling it into the cabinet. I had previously tried replacing the water inlet valve, but that was not the problem.

Purchased new drain pump thinking that was the issue. When I was installing I noticed the drain hose was clogged. Since the way out cabinets were installed by the previous owner getting the dishwasher out is a little more complex so installed the drain pump and drain hose just to make sure. Runs like new!

Removed dishwasher from under the counter. Tipped it onto the door to access the motor. The Bracket requires the use of a torque bit in the screwdriver. Removed the bradket and pulled out the motor. Replaced the O-rings and put on a new bracket. Reinstalled the dishwasher, but it still is leaking. Removed dishwasher and motor again. After a more thorough inspection, I noticed that the motor itself is leading through a weep hole inside the casing. The hole is located between the bracket and the dishwasher housing so it makes it appear to leak around the O-ring. Be sure to check the weep hole in the motor itself.