FFCD2413US0A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

It would sometimes work, which led me to believe it was a switch. Looked on line and found the mail switch to go on was in the latch. I took it apart, 6 screws, wiggled the switch and it went on. So I found the door switch to be bad. It was very simple to change the switch.

After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.

Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

Broken friction cable on the right hand side. Remove screws that hold dishwasher to cabinet, pull out the dishwasher far enough to get to the friction cable and rear spring. Remove broken cable. Attach new cable to rear spring and connect to door hinge. Push back dishwasher and screw in the two screws that keep the dishwasher attached to the cabinet. Very simple.

First thing I did was turn off the power to the dishwasher, then remove the racks. Remove the foot plates, remove the two top screws holding the dishwasher. Then using the socket set, retract the two foot stands to pull the dishwasher forward. You may not have to do this step as I had to get it over tile. The pully springs are on the sides, easily replaced. After replacing the springs and I recommend replacing both at the same time, put everything back. The hardest part will be the foot plates, there are two and getting them lined up and the screws back in is a bit of a challenge. Then you are done.

I installed the new spray arm without any tools and it worked perfectly.

I removed the old spray arm by pulling it off of the base then I pushed the new one on and made sure it was on properly then I pit the base back into the dishwasher and it was good as new!

The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter, flip it on it's side to gain access to the discharge hose attachment point, removeit, remove the other end of the hose from the sink-side and replace the hose. The sink-end of the hose has a 'collar' that must be cut to fit the fitting on the sink.

Took no tools. Removed the melted pieces and snapped the new ones in the machine and I was ready to start washing!!! My wife and I are very impressed with prompt and courteous professionalism of PartSelect . I will recommend them highly. I would rate this a 5 star rating, wasn't able to change that star from one to 5

I rolled out the old bottom dish rack and rolled in the new one with no problems. In fact, the new bottom dish rack is much better that the original that came from the factory. It only took about less than one minute.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

Removed the clamp holding it to the floor and
removed the c-clips holding element underneath
and put new one in. Hard part was figuring out
what was holding the element but since I still
had the schematic drawing we figured it out.
Saved a bunch on a repairman. After watching
my friend install the new element I could probably
do it myself next time.

Grab the tab on the support and rotate 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to unlock it, then lift it off. The lower spray arm simply pops off the support by spreading two tabs underneath.

Align the opening in the lower spray arm support with the outlet post in the bottom and rotate 1/4 turn clockwise to lock.

*Note: direction to remove the filter basket differed from the manual. Visually line up the notches and do not twist too far when locking or you WILL break the retainer tabs.

Simply center the lower spray arm over the support and press down until it locks into place.

This was really easy. Have done it before on other older dishwashers in the past.
Turned off the breaker for the dishwasher. Turned off the water supply valve. Unscrewed the screws in the panel that hides the parts under the dishwasher. Unscrewed the screws anchoring the dishwasher to the counter. Slid the dishwasher out about a foot. Inlet valve was located on the front left side of the dishwasher. Unclipped the wire harness. Placed a cookie sheet under the water line. Unscrewed the water line from the inlet valve. Unscrewed the two Phillips head screws holding the valve to the dishwasher frame. Got the new part. Put the screws back into the frame. Reconnected the water line and wire harness. Slid the washer back into place. Turned on the water valve. Watched for leaks. Turned the breaker back on and started the cycle. Watched for leaks. Once I saw there weren’t any replaced the screws anchoring it to the counter and replaced the cover on the bottom. That was it! Took me longer to type out the steps than it did to actually do the repair.