TUD6710WB1 Estate Dishwasher - Instructions

I used a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp a small section of the broken shaft of the screw and was able to turn it to loosen and remove. the hardest part after that was explaining the part to the local Sears who looked it up based on the model number and orderd the wrong part. thanks to the pictures on your site, i was albe to locate and order the part myself. i paid a fraction of the shipping that Sears had charged me, received the part in less time then Sears delivery and also paid less for the part itself. T H A N K Y O U !

Disconnect power supply to dishwasher. Open door and remove screws on inner door cover. Carefully remove inner cover while watching how inner parts are arranged. Found return spring on detergent cup linkage had rusted and broken causing detergent cup not to open. Installed new spring and re assembled inner cover. Rotated timer dial one full revolution to check operation of detergent cup. Worked like a charm. Re connect power supply to dishwasher and your good to go.

removed old parts and re-installed new parts. The spring is a little hard to get to the right point without a jewelers screwdriver, after that everything worked fine.

After doing some research in a repair book I decided to take a stab with a water inlet valve. With expedited shipping I ordered the part and within three days it was delivered. I installed it and the dishwasher seemed like it was trying to fill but still would not. After much cocnsternation I turned the water supply valve to the dishwasher a partial turn to close and I felt the water rush through the valve and the dishwasher then filled. Apparently the shut off valve must have been clogged plus it now leaked. I then replaced the shutoff valve and the copper pipe to the water inlet valve with flexible 3/8" tubing and the dishwasher thus far is running fine without leaks.

Diagnosing the problem, i.e. finding the source of the leak, was the hardest part. The best clue was the leak only occurred well into the cycle when the water was hot and steam was coming out the vent. I then assumed there was a bad seal and steam & condensed water was leaking down into the door. I replaced the vent duct & seal, a broken drip cover (an internal part in the door), and replaced a missing rinse aid cap. This stopped the leak.

Water was not being sprayed thru the arms. I opened the dishwasher, removed/unscrewed the spray arms and wash impeller (black plastic wheel that directs the water) and then noticed that the part below the wash impeller had broken into pieces. There was only a metal ring and it was supposed to have a spring attached to it. I replaced the ring/spring below the wash impeller using the part from the Drain and Wash impeller kit. The dishwasher works great now.

It was my first mechanical fix. Use the web to diagnose, find the specs of the appliance and use common sense and you can do it yourself too.

By the way, the parts from this site arrived the next day.

I removed all the ( what my Husband called star screws ) star screws and removed the housing panel ( holds dish detergent cup and silverware basket ) I discovered everything accross the bottom was all gucked up with detergent soap accumulation. I took the part to the kitchen sink and used the sprayer hose on the part with hot water and it cleaned up beautifully, and the detergent latch then worked ( the spring that operates the latch was all gucked up with detergent accumulation ).
I am the wife and did all of this myself and it only took around 5-10 min. My Husband had to help me figure out the type of screws because they turned out to not be phillip screws, but as Hubby called them.."star screws".
Soooo, I did not need to use the Latch Kit I purchased, so will store it in my parts supply! :)
Happy repairs to you..
Judy Estes Park, CO

After hearing ominous grinding sounds and water leaking around the gasket, it was about time to rehab the dishwasher. This is usually the point where I say "t'hell with it, buy a new one". I am glad I didn't.
The Kit to rehab the impeller and such had EVERYTHING I needed. Right parts, right price.
Removed the upper arm assembly, T15 screwdriver, the screen strainer, the impeller, T25 screwdriver, the food grinding spring and impeller (the grinding noise, spring was sprung), and finally the post and impeller thingie (had to break it off, very brittle). The pieces went back on a lot more smoothly than it took to get them off!
Use your digital camera! I took pictures of every stage of the parts removal and what I removed. I got confused with some little balls that were inside and the pictures told me exactly where they went.
Door gasket? I should have replaced it YEARS ago, so easy and cheap with PartSelect parts.

I snapped on the new part onto the track. It was that easy! :) Thank goodness the part was available from Part Select!
T. Edwards

Turned of water and unplugged the dishwasher.
Disconnected the incoming water line.
Drained on to the floor (have paper towels ready)
Disconnected the electrical feed wire.
Disconnected the rubber hose.
Unscrewed screw holding the fixture to the frame.
Took off the brass elbow from the old part.
Put pipedope around it and screwed into new part (carefully, so as to not crack plastic again).
Attached part back to frame.
Attached water lines.
Turned on water, plugged it in and ran dishwasher looking for leaks. No problem.

I unscrewed the old water inlet valve from the frame of the dishwasher so that I could manuever my hand around to the backside where the rubber hose was connected. That was the easy part. I then had trouble holding the old valve while trying to unscrew the hot water copper tubing so I screwed it back on the frame. My dishwasher is close to 18 years old and I think that was part of the problem. After soaking in WD40, I finally got the valve out. Then I had to remove the "L" shaped connector to put on the new valve. Everything went back together a lot faster and it's like I have a new dishwasher again. By the way, I am a 53 year old female so that may be why it took me so long.

Removed 5 or 6 screws replaced O ring,Srewed cover back on ,no more leak.

replaced the two water defiector's, I had changed the door seal and should have changed the defiectors at the same time. Save yourself some time and ordor both parts. This is a easy fix, anyone can do.

Removed dishwasher, take to garage, removed lower rack to gain access to top of motor unit. Used star socket wrench to remove upper screws holding top of unit in. Disconnect wires, drain tube and counter weight. pulled motor unit out from inside dishwasher and placed on bench. Proceeded to disassemble motor. Some things were obvious, others not so. replaced old worn out parts with new, used a little lube (Vaseline) in places to assist in getting seals back in place. Instructions were of little help need to pay close attention when tearing unit apart. Reassembled with new seals, installed motor and re-installed dishwasher...NO LEAKS!! Wife and I happy.

Had to pull the dishwashwer out to replace the latch. Did this by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the Dishwashwer to the under side of the counter. Dishwasher then pulled out easily. Then unscrewed to screws on the latch. The screws were accessed by pulling out the modling/strip around the dishwasher door. Also easy to replace the screws. But sliding it back in was a little harder. Had to shorten the front legs on the dishwashwer to get the back of the dishwasher to go back in. Then screw the front legs back out. Finally re-inserted the screws under the counter that attached the top of the Dishwasher to the counter top.