CDB500NS1A Crosley Dishwasher - Instructions

Takes longer to open the machine and remove the lower basket than to do repair.

Snap arm and support together, align and twist in machine to lock in place.

Save yourself some time and buy the support. High risk it can be broken while being removed from the arm. I am glad I purchased a new one and didn't take the risk.

After shutting off power to the dishwasher, I removed the two screws holding the door cover on the inside of the door sides, about 8 inches from the bottom of the door. I slid the cover down and off, and unplugged the wires to the dispenser. Then I removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, removed the old dispenser, installed the new one, replaced the six screws and plugged the wires back in. The door cover and the two screws was all that was left. It took about ten minutes. Easy.

Watched your video repair was easy.

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

Disconnected power, water, and drain tube from dishwasher. Pulled dishwasher out and laid it on right side. It was not necessary to remove the pump motor. When disconnecting the water line, it is better to remove 3/8 line from the appliance adapter rather that the appliance adapter from the dishwasher as the nylon connection tends to strip.

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Turned power off , shut the water off to washer , unhook water line , unhook drain line from sink drain , unplugged electric chord from the wall . Open the door look where the door latches you'll see two metal strap' s that are screwed under the counter . Take the screws out . Take the bottom basket out .Take the spray bar off . There's two clips on the bar just push them out lift bar up .There in the middle of the washer you'll see filter screen. There's a small handle looking thing do not know what they call it .lol Twist one way or the other to take it off . Once you have that out of the way take the three screws out mine were hecksscrews .Pull the cover off remove the ball . Take a rag and take the excise water out in the bottom . Pull the washer completely out from under the counter . Lay it on the back side on the floor . You'll see the pump it has U shape metal holding it with two screws . Take the to screws out remove the U shape metal bracket . Unplug wire going to motor squeeze the clip and pull . Twist motor back and fourth and pull slightly till it comes out . Put new O rings on new motor and lubricate O rings and slide motor back in . Reverse the process . Take pictures if you need to as your taking things off if your afraid you won't remember.

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

First I removed the two screws that hold the dishwasher in place, I pulled out the dishwasher and on the bottom right located the leak. The two brass nuts that hold the heating element in place. The wires had been rusted to the element so I cut the wires (and later spliced them back together) and unscrewed the brass nuts. I ordered the part after finding them very easily on partselect.com and 2 days later screwed them back on to the dishwasher. Spliced the wires back together and put the dishwasher back in place.

Easy Fix.

Easy

Although the part I ordered was not an exact match, it was a Frigidaire piece and fit onto the spray arm assembley the same way. And if I do say so, it actually seems to clean the dishes better! All I did was clip the new one into place.

i just took off the old and poped on the new, it was way to easy! no tools required!

I left the unit in place. I removed the bottom cover, unplugged power from GFI receptacle and closed water supply valve. I unplugged the electrical connection. I put a dishtowel under water inlet valve and removed water supply. I removed two screws from inlet valve bracket that allowed me to rotate the valve and used pliers to remove water hose clamp and hose. I installed the new valve in reverse order. I checked for leaks; found none. Life is good again!

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

It only took about 20 minutes to replace. Thanks for the video.