B1STA4319B (12) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

The part was perfect. The repair video was very helpful, except it did not include the disassembly of the old part. I figured that out, and all went smoothly until the final step. The screw included required not a slot-head screwdriver which everyone has, not a Phillips head screwdriver which everyone has, but a screw requiring a specialized driver that no one has. WHY? I substituted a normal screw and hope that does not mean the terrorists have won.

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

I have granite countertops and one of the hold down brackets broke to wood cabinet side mount. Easy and fast repair to remove old brackets, pull out dishwasher, and I replaced both brackets with new, and new wood screws. New installation looks better than original done 18 years ago. Very easy to do and saved a lot of money if I had an appliance repair company do it.

I just removed the lower panel according to the manual, but the easier way is to remove the upper control unit by lifting upward. The difficulty with removing the lower panel is that the heavy-duty plastic pieces at the door hinge area are prone to falling out while trying to reattach the heavy lower panel. Replacing the control unit was very easy. All of the connectors have small locks on the back sides. Spreading the plastic locks for the control unit itself lets it come right out. The new unit just snaps in. Just be sure each connector plug is seated and locked. It takes longer to describe it than to do it.

Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.

Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.

I snapped the part in and voila!

shut off water, pull dishwasher out, took side insulation off, unhooked what was connected to the float switch and replaced the new with the old. Reconnected everything and put insulation back and wa-la , all done

Unscrewed the old piece screwed in the new

Dishwasher door won’t stay closed. Upon inspection, the metal striker/catch at the top of the door was broken. This dishwasher is 12 years old and this is the first problem I’ve had with it. To repair the catch, first remove screws holding cover plate at the bottom of the door. Next, remove screws holding the dishwasher stable from under the counter. The pull out the dishwasher to gain access to the catch. You’ll have to take a small set of pliers and bend the two tabs back that hold the catch in place. Lift the catch up and forward to remove. Replace and bend the tabs back to hold the new catch securely. Move the dishwasher back in place and secure with the screws previously removed. Put the cover plate back in place and you’re done.

The video pretty much showed it all except...if you have a custom panel on the front like ours did. In that case, yiu have to remove the torx screws along the top PLUS to extras in the side of the part that protrudes into the tub of the washer. Those two are key to releasing the front panel and are also held in with fairly flimsy spring steel so be careful. Otherwise, pretty easy to do.