SHXN8U55UC (01) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

They just snap in

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

Dishwasher panel unresponsive when pressed. Check electricity and power was going to unit. Dishwasher had successfully performed last washing cycle (no mechanical issues) so focused on Operating Module that is located at top of door panel (concealed when door is closed), This is an easy repair if you take your time and gently remove the components. First, unplug the unit or shut power off at the circuit. Open the door fully, and place a pad or blanket under the door as you will be removing the front dishwasher panel (this unit is stainless steel).

There are phillips head screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel, two sizes (keep track as you remove for reinstallation purposes). You will want to remove the bottom screws first, and when you get to the top of the door panel screws, support the exterior door panel with an assistant or your off-hand. Once all screws are out, the panel should be easily removed. You can now access the Operating Module.

The Operating Module is connected to the dishwater motor via the Cable Harness. The Cable Harness is connected to the Operating Module by two plugs. Disconnect the Cable Harness by depressing the outer area of the plugs, you do not need any tools. Once these are disconnected, notice how the wiring is is routed (take a picture) and you can remove if you are also replacing the Cable Harness (I ordered just in case but did not have to).

The Operating Module is held in place by a number of plastic clips, that when depressed, will release the unit. You may need something to depress the clips (standard screwdriver) but be careful to take your time to do not force. My unit is 8 years old, and the plastic is more fragile now and these are easy to break. After trial and error, I actually started in the middle of the Module and the worked to the outside of each end to remove it. Reinstalling is a breeze (as long as you don't break the plastic clips), follow your steps in reverse. Allow 45 minutes for the whole process, but take whatever time is necessary. Much cheaper than a new dishwasher. Good Luck!

The spray arm makes a slide in attachment to a slide out drawer. It was removed by forcing out of the connection on the back of the drawer and the replacement was installed by sliding it into the same connection point.

Popped the new one right on!

Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.

Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.

Part arrived on time. Double checked it was the part I needed. I unclipped the old seal and snapped the new piece in place.

Replaced lower dish rack

Replaced both front and back holder supports of 1 side of thinner dishwasher rack

First - I watched 2 or 3 videos on how it was done. The operation was not as easy as the videos made it out to be. Removal of the old unit was straight forward using 6 coins as shims to spread open the metal clips that hold the unit in place was essential. One issue not covered well in the videos is supporting the control panel after it was removed. the wires hang and are supporting the panel which is not good. I used a bunch of masking tape to secure the control panel to the top of the door. Also - installing the new unit can really only be done by first, fully engaging the top of the dispenser and then forcibly "pushing" (I used a rubber mallet) the bottom into place. you need to make sure the clips are locked in on all sides. After the dispenser is in place and the wiring harness has been reattached, you need to tape the wiring onto the door to keep them out of the way. I then very loosely reattached the control unit by the top 2 screws. I then lowered to the door flat and weighted it down. I used a clamp on each side of the door to lift the cover up into place unit until it could screwed. and then jimmied the control panel into place

Removed the 12 torx-headed sheet metal screws holding tub-side of the door together.

Opened the door assembly, the wiring harness for the control panel prevents the separation of the door interior and exterior, which is necessary to access the door handle mounting hardware.

Lifted the control panel assembly up, which allowed separation of the door components to access the door handle hardware.

Removed and replaced the broken mount.

When reassembling the door, be careful to align the control panel and snap it back into the groove on the external door assembly be fore reinstalling the screws. Line up the screws carefully to allow flush mounting and avoid stripping the interior screw holes.

Removed the middle basket and turned it upside down. Unplugged the spray arm from the middle basket. Snapped the new spray arm into the middle basket.
Installed middle basket into slides.
It works great. Great site for parts - reasonable prices too

Determined that the unloader valve was leaking.
Removed the unloader valve from valve body.
I could see a crack in the nylon portion of the valve. This would not let the relief valve operate.
Went to the internet (Part Select) and found the replacement valve. There are a lot of different sizes of unloader valve. Partselect help me select the correct valve.
The key was the valve body, the unloader valve inserts into the valve body. There are two types of valve bodies, a 4 bolt and a 5 bolt. They look the same but do not interchange. I needed the 4 bolt.
I was nervous as the new unloader valve was a different construction than my old valve. It worked perfectly.
Replacement was easy.
Locate the unloader valve. It is part of the pump body. You can recognize it by the spring extending out from the valve body.
Remove the “U” shaped clip that holds the unloader valve in the valve body.
I used pliers to grab the spring and pulled the unloader valve from the valve body. It took a little pulling pressure to remove.
Note the orientation of the unloader valve I. The valve body. You want to install the unloader valve with the same orientation.
It may take a little force to seat the valve. I used a little silicone grease to lube the valve. A small tap on the end of the valve to insure it is fully seated.
It has to be seated so the “U” shaped retaining clip can be inserted to hold the unloader valve in place. Again, a light tap was necessary to fully seat the clip.
That was it, I was back operating my pressure washer