SHE7PT56UC (02) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Toni from GREENSBORO, NC
- Parts Used:
- 00611475
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
One Dishwasher bottom rack wheel broke
Popped the new one right on!
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- Customer:
- Callan from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- 12054183
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Chronic water leakage
Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.
Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.
Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from BAY VILLAGE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 00745001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The top door gasket on dishwasher cabinet was torn
Part arrived on time. Double checked it was the part I needed. I unclipped the old seal and snapped the new piece in place.
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- Customer:
- James from MOORPARK, CA
- Parts Used:
- 00745856
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Top arm water connection to rear wall - all seals eroded and leaking
Removed the middle basket and turned it upside down. Unplugged the spray arm from the middle basket. Snapped the new spray arm into the middle basket.
Installed middle basket into slides.
It works great. Great site for parts - reasonable prices too
Installed middle basket into slides.
It works great. Great site for parts - reasonable prices too
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- Customer:
- Scott from MOUNT JULIET, TN
- Parts Used:
- 11050210
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pressure washer would not maintain pressure
Determined that the unloader valve was leaking.
Removed the unloader valve from valve body.
I could see a crack in the nylon portion of the valve. This would not let the relief valve operate.
Went to the internet (Part Select) and found the replacement valve. There are a lot of different sizes of unloader valve. Partselect help me select the correct valve.
The key was the valve body, the unloader valve inserts into the valve body. There are two types of valve bodies, a 4 bolt and a 5 bolt. They look the same but do not interchange. I needed the 4 bolt.
I was nervous as the new unloader valve was a different construction than my old valve. It worked perfectly.
Replacement was easy.
Locate the unloader valve. It is part of the pump body. You can recognize it by the spring extending out from the valve body.
Remove the “U” shaped clip that holds the unloader valve in the valve body.
I used pliers to grab the spring and pulled the unloader valve from the valve body. It took a little pulling pressure to remove.
Note the orientation of the unloader valve I. The valve body. You want to install the unloader valve with the same orientation.
It may take a little force to seat the valve. I used a little silicone grease to lube the valve. A small tap on the end of the valve to insure it is fully seated.
It has to be seated so the “U” shaped retaining clip can be inserted to hold the unloader valve in place. Again, a light tap was necessary to fully seat the clip.
That was it, I was back operating my pressure washer
Removed the unloader valve from valve body.
I could see a crack in the nylon portion of the valve. This would not let the relief valve operate.
Went to the internet (Part Select) and found the replacement valve. There are a lot of different sizes of unloader valve. Partselect help me select the correct valve.
The key was the valve body, the unloader valve inserts into the valve body. There are two types of valve bodies, a 4 bolt and a 5 bolt. They look the same but do not interchange. I needed the 4 bolt.
I was nervous as the new unloader valve was a different construction than my old valve. It worked perfectly.
Replacement was easy.
Locate the unloader valve. It is part of the pump body. You can recognize it by the spring extending out from the valve body.
Remove the “U” shaped clip that holds the unloader valve in the valve body.
I used pliers to grab the spring and pulled the unloader valve from the valve body. It took a little pulling pressure to remove.
Note the orientation of the unloader valve I. The valve body. You want to install the unloader valve with the same orientation.
It may take a little force to seat the valve. I used a little silicone grease to lube the valve. A small tap on the end of the valve to insure it is fully seated.
It has to be seated so the “U” shaped retaining clip can be inserted to hold the unloader valve in place. Again, a light tap was necessary to fully seat the clip.
That was it, I was back operating my pressure washer
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Thank you for voting!