SHE33T56UC/02 Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

Really simple. You pull out the drain filter plate and pull the filter off the support and replace. I gave everything a good cleaning and put it back in place.

The problem and solution were described on the internet. I ordered a set of 4 wheels for $43+. I received one wheel. When I called Drew told me that the order was correct, but the description on the web page was wrong. He was to sent me a return label, but it has not arrived. Since then I went to the Bosch website, found the set of wheels (Part 10016657) for $42. They have been installed and the problem seems to have been fixed.

Note: The diagram and part description misled me to think that each item was a quantity of one, so I ordered two since I wanted to replace the part on each side of the door. In fact, both the cable repair kit and the guide came with a quantity of two, so have an extra set that I will likely never need. As far as the replacement, it was quick and easy. The hardest part was pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet.

Easily removed the old one by carefully pulling it and repeated this procedure to replace it. Total time took less than 15 minutes

I ordered the wrong part....needed their help to locate the correct part.
Sent 3 emails asking for help to the 'customer service' email ----NEVER heard a word!!!......and now they want me to rate the installation ?!
Horrible customer service

The part was perfect. The repair video was very helpful, except it did not include the disassembly of the old part. I figured that out, and all went smoothly until the final step. The screw included required not a slot-head screwdriver which everyone has, not a Phillips head screwdriver which everyone has, but a screw requiring a specialized driver that no one has. WHY? I substituted a normal screw and hope that does not mean the terrorists have won.

just placed the basket in the rack

Followed the instructions that came with the spring repair kit

as per youtube repair

The spray arm makes a slide in attachment to a slide out drawer. It was removed by forcing out of the connection on the back of the drawer and the replacement was installed by sliding it into the same connection point.

The instructions stated to remove the door. I spent an hour attempting to remove the door. That was an unnecessary instruction. all else worked as described. Springs were easy to install. The attachment to the door was difficult. Better instructions on how to grasp the connection to spread the spring to give the cable enough slack to attach the connection to the door.

After researching YouTube, I figured out the problem was the left side of the door was dropping. Took some screws out where the dishwasher was attached to the counter and cabinets. It took a bit to pull the dishwasher out but when done, the fix was easy. Reverse the process, make sure there’s power and hoses are back.

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.

Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.

First - I watched 2 or 3 videos on how it was done. The operation was not as easy as the videos made it out to be. Removal of the old unit was straight forward using 6 coins as shims to spread open the metal clips that hold the unit in place was essential. One issue not covered well in the videos is supporting the control panel after it was removed. the wires hang and are supporting the panel which is not good. I used a bunch of masking tape to secure the control panel to the top of the door. Also - installing the new unit can really only be done by first, fully engaging the top of the dispenser and then forcibly "pushing" (I used a rubber mallet) the bottom into place. you need to make sure the clips are locked in on all sides. After the dispenser is in place and the wiring harness has been reattached, you need to tape the wiring onto the door to keep them out of the way. I then very loosely reattached the control unit by the top 2 screws. I then lowered to the door flat and weighted it down. I used a clamp on each side of the door to lift the cover up into place unit until it could screwed. and then jimmied the control panel into place