SHV8PT53UC/01 Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

Fairly easy repair, with the hardest part getting the appliance out of the cabinet. Kill the power and get the dishwasher out. Once out, the water inlet assembly (a large, white, opaque plastic box) is on the left side of the dishwasher, exposed and surrounded by the sound insulation. Pull back the insulation and use pliers to disconnect the small, white water inlet tube (hard to remove, you may need to pry a bit with a flathead screwdriver). Once that's off, look on the back left of the dishwasher for the valve access, which is mounted on a plastic snap-in tab. It was easiest to snap this out by reaching into the dishwasher from the side and squeezing the tab on the assembly with my fingers. Once it's out, remove the electrical connection from the old valve access by squeezing the tab. Unscrew the incoming water hose (from water service), and squeeze the clamp to remove the smaller white hose. Then go in reverse to reassemble: connect the white hose to the valve access and clamp. Connect the water service (make sure the threads take and it's solidly hand-tightened). Connect the small electrical plug. Snap the panel back into the back of the dishwasher. Connect the small white hose back to the water inlet assembly on the left side of the dishwasher and clamp. Test if you can, then put insulation and appliance back in. This totally eliminated my E17 errors.

easy repair, but the check valve wasn't the problem, it was the float switch that isn't on the tech sheet in the dishwasher or mentioned as a possible culprit anywhere I could find on the internet

Slip the wheel onto the axle, snap the clip facing up onto the frame

Replacement was fast and very simple. Was completed in less than 5 minutes.

popped off old spray arm from under the rack and put on new spray arm,
couldn't be any easier, 5 minute job, door closes easily now!

Really simple. You pull out the drain filter plate and pull the filter off the support and replace. I gave everything a good cleaning and put it back in place.

Initially, I received an E15 error. I evaluated for leaks but couldn't find anything except for water in the bottom of the dishwasher after about 30 minutes of the initial cycle. After discovering the hole in the flow tub, I order the part. It came a few days later & replace the part within a 15 minutes of receiving it. I didn't think it would resolve the issue but it did. Thank you!

Repair was simple once the problem was diagnosed with the inlet valve.
Most of the work was in disconnecting the necessary lines so the dishwasher could be removed from the cabinets to replace the bad valve. Replacing the valve was easy. Reinstalling the dishwasher was just the reverse of the removal. The replacement part matched the original and solved the problem we had.

just placed the basket in the rack

The problem and solution were described on the internet. I ordered a set of 4 wheels for $43+. I received one wheel. When I called Drew told me that the order was correct, but the description on the web page was wrong. He was to sent me a return label, but it has not arrived. Since then I went to the Bosch website, found the set of wheels (Part 10016657) for $42. They have been installed and the problem seems to have been fixed.

Easily removed the old one by carefully pulling it and repeated this procedure to replace it. Total time took less than 15 minutes

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

The spray arm makes a slide in attachment to a slide out drawer. It was removed by forcing out of the connection on the back of the drawer and the replacement was installed by sliding it into the same connection point.

Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.

Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.

First - I watched 2 or 3 videos on how it was done. The operation was not as easy as the videos made it out to be. Removal of the old unit was straight forward using 6 coins as shims to spread open the metal clips that hold the unit in place was essential. One issue not covered well in the videos is supporting the control panel after it was removed. the wires hang and are supporting the panel which is not good. I used a bunch of masking tape to secure the control panel to the top of the door. Also - installing the new unit can really only be done by first, fully engaging the top of the dispenser and then forcibly "pushing" (I used a rubber mallet) the bottom into place. you need to make sure the clips are locked in on all sides. After the dispenser is in place and the wiring harness has been reattached, you need to tape the wiring onto the door to keep them out of the way. I then very loosely reattached the control unit by the top 2 screws. I then lowered to the door flat and weighted it down. I used a clamp on each side of the door to lift the cover up into place unit until it could screwed. and then jimmied the control panel into place