SHE53TL2UC (09) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

The E:15 error code means water is detected in the pan under the unit. There are several ways this can happen.

In this case, it was caused by a bad inlet valve. It did not close properly and led to an overflow of water inside that eventually spilled into the pan underneath the unit.

I see now why the pump keeps running after this error. In this case, it would have led to a big flood in the kitchen if it did not.

I was actually able to run the unit while broke by manually operating the valve under our sink that provides water to the unit.

Be sure to turn off breaker before servicing. Don't get shocked!

Be sure to turn off water before starting! Or, you'll have a flood.

Anyway, I just pulled the unit out (was secured by 2 screws on the sides). I lifted up the insulation material on the left side to get at the valve. Pushed a little green tab to release the electrical plug. Then, use pliers to move clamp off the white water hose on the inside. Then, pull of white hose. This was hard in my case. Took a lot of force. Then, reach behind the unit and use pliers to unscrew water hose. Now, the whole gray panel there can pop out with some force. Then, slip the old valve out and slip new one in. Reconnect hoses and clamp. Note that I put some caulk on the connector where white hose goes. Not sure if needed or not.

Good luck!

Turned off electric
Slid out unit - the water connection on this model is in the back
Disconnected the H2O hose. This valve access part is the part that connects the dishwasher to the H2O supply. The soon to be replaced part had sediment in it preventing H2O to go into the dishwasher and into the basin instead. The exploded view of dishwasher was a big help. It was a guess as to why this was happening. Now that I’ve had it apart it makes sense that this is the part that would fail after a period of time, especially if you have city H2O. My husband Bob did this repair.

replacing the sensor was simple, just unplug and turn it out, but didn't solve the problem, it's a float sensor that doesn't show up on the tech sheet in the dishwasher or anywhere in troubleshooting on the internet I could find.

Turned off power and water supply. Pulled dishwasher out. Disconnected the water inlet from the back left side. Swapped out the inlet valve. Wiped up the water in the bottom pan. Put dishwasher back and turned on water and power. Simple.

I removed the old gasket easily, it pulled right out. I spent a few minutes cleaning the gunk out from the seam using a standard kitchen cleaner (it was gross and I had to do it multiple times). Tip: pay attention to the shape of the gasket and which side faces in vs. out when pulling out the old one. Also, for reference, take a photo of the old gasket and how it's positioned before pulling it out. Then, simply start at the bottom (either side) and insert the new gasket. Work your way up, over and down the other side. If it's facing the right way it'll go in very easily, if not is will be very difficult—this is how you'll know. After installation, run your dishwasher empty for a full cycle (with towel underneath the door) and check back frequently during the cycle. If there are no leaks you're done. This was the fastest, easiest way to attempt to fix a leaky door and eliminate the gasket as the problem (which it did!) If the machine still leaks the issue is likely something bigger.

It is important to remove the dishwasher to a workable space. Probably best to set it on a slightly higher platform, otherwise you're on the floor.

1. remove racks,
2. disconnect power supply and water line (turn off at source).
3. remove the exterior insulation.
4. One can now access the harness from both side of the washer.
5. Inspect and determine what connection goes where, all have color coded wire.Connections are notched
6. Recommend that each connection is removed and new connection replaced at that time
7.removing screws from the inside door to connect the harness to select connection.
7.button-up the door, replace insulation and reattach water line and power, reinstall machine.
8. You may have to remove the front toe-kick to access routing the wires.

Fairly easy repair, with the hardest part getting the appliance out of the cabinet. Kill the power and get the dishwasher out. Once out, the water inlet assembly (a large, white, opaque plastic box) is on the left side of the dishwasher, exposed and surrounded by the sound insulation. Pull back the insulation and use pliers to disconnect the small, white water inlet tube (hard to remove, you may need to pry a bit with a flathead screwdriver). Once that's off, look on the back left of the dishwasher for the valve access, which is mounted on a plastic snap-in tab. It was easiest to snap this out by reaching into the dishwasher from the side and squeezing the tab on the assembly with my fingers. Once it's out, remove the electrical connection from the old valve access by squeezing the tab. Unscrew the incoming water hose (from water service), and squeeze the clamp to remove the smaller white hose. Then go in reverse to reassemble: connect the white hose to the valve access and clamp. Connect the water service (make sure the threads take and it's solidly hand-tightened). Connect the small electrical plug. Snap the panel back into the back of the dishwasher. Connect the small white hose back to the water inlet assembly on the left side of the dishwasher and clamp. Test if you can, then put insulation and appliance back in. This totally eliminated my E17 errors.

Went to on line video and followed it. The old gasket came right out and the new one fit right in. Started at the top middle and worked the gasket in on both sides to make sure it was evenly spaced.

easy repair, but the check valve wasn't the problem, it was the float switch that isn't on the tech sheet in the dishwasher or mentioned as a possible culprit anywhere I could find on the internet

removed machine so left side water drain matrix was accessible, replaced that unit, reinstalled machine to its built-in location.

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet, laid it on its side, removed the old pump/heater, installed the new and reinstalled the dishwasher. What made this a little more difficult is my dishwasher has a bottom to it that would be very difficult to remove, access to the pump is from the side! I have large hands, not much room to work!

We followed the video and had no problems with leaks at all afterwards. The parts fit perfectly and the machine is working great again.

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

Repair was simple once the problem was diagnosed with the inlet valve.
Most of the work was in disconnecting the necessary lines so the dishwasher could be removed from the cabinets to replace the bad valve. Replacing the valve was easy. Reinstalling the dishwasher was just the reverse of the removal. The replacement part matched the original and solved the problem we had.

Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.

Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.