ADB1400PYB2 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

I manually attached the track stop to the right track in the disheasher.

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

I had to replace the whole sliding system on the top rack. Plus the clips holding it. It snapped. I watched the video and did the steps from Steve. The rack slides better than when brand new. Whirlpool wouldn’t pick up phone but part select did. So thank you for being there so I could fix the rack and be able to use the dishwasher again.

Husband watched your repair video. Everything went well and we are very pleased.

Our dishwasher's top rack would pull too far out which made it hard to stay in alignment. It had lost it's track stop. I easily ordered the part from PartSelect, and it came more quickly than I expected; I clicked it in place and it runs like new. It's wonderful to deal with a company that knows the frustration of not having your appliance in good working orfer.
Thank you.
Sue M
Masdsachusetts

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

1. Open dishwasher door, to access the screws holding dishwasher to cabinet.... remove these screws.
2. May need to shut water off and unscrew water line and waste line (if they aren't long enough because you will need to pull dishwasher out.
3. Unplug electricity
4. Pull dishwasher all the way out... probably need to disconnect the water and waste lines
5. crescent wrench to unscrew the plastic screws in back
6. Disconnect two wires going to element
7. Replace element... reverse steps
8. Not too bad at all
9. Part Select is Awesome !!!!

Removed the old pump, got part number from it, ordered the part. Simply a matter of slipping the new pump into place, reconnecting the electric, testing the machine out to make sure it did not leak. Then slid back in place with the cabinets.

Tipped over washer, removed attachment bolts, installed new pump by clamping water hoses. Be sure to use proper crimping pliers, not the generic slip joint pliers. Replacement pump included required new clamps.

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

Pulled out old gasket, pressed in new starting middle top. No more leak.

I saves the old part to see how it was to be installed. It was very easy. I saved the $50 + dollars for a SERVICE CALL.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

It took all of 30 minutes from beginning to end remove the old parts and replaced them and run a diagnostic test before I could wash dishes. The parts were exact and Parts Select has always provided the right parts, shipped fast and never disappointed me.