ADB1500ADW3 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced the strainer. This keeps the two sprayers clean/clear so they do not clog up. Dishes are cleaner now. Note : if your sprayers are clogged it is a long process to clear out the sprayers. Dishes will not be clean until your sprayers are all cleared.

Very easy to twist off the old pump and replace with new part. Worked perfect after replacement! We just followed you tube instructions

The air just unscrews with one twist and the new arm twist right back on. No tools needs. Saved me $100 service call.

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

I took the valve off and actually hooked 110 volts to the vale and tried to blow through it and it would not let air pass through it. I replaced the the new valve in about 15 minutes and it works fine

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

Removed the caps on the ends of the arms. Took out the broken one and put in the
New ones

Replaced door latch

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

lower wash arm cracked by spinning into items hanging out of bottom of basket. part twists and snaps right in. glue did not fix.

Unscrewed brackets from underneath counter that hold dishwasher in place. Pulled dishwasher out of cabinet to access door hinges (approximately 8 to 12 inches). Released springs from door hinge (not necessary to remove spring from hole in dishwasher frame). Did not have to remove old sleeve because they tear and fall off. Slipped sleeve over door hinge to groove where they sit on hinge. Note: pulling hinge away from dishwasher a little. helps to complete installation.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.

Disconnect power Pull out dishwasher. Turn it 45 degrees to your right. Turn it on its side. disconnect the connections to the heating element {2}. Remove bolts, remove element. Install new element and tighten bolts. Reconnect electrical connectors. puch it back in place. reconnectPower your done

removed and installed cords with screw driver

The old filter simply unscrews and the new one screws in.

I located the water inlet valve underneath. After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinet, I tilted it . Then I disconnected the black hose with the pliers . Using the adjustable wrench I unscrewed the water feed to the valve . I then unscrewed the valve from the frame and disconnected the wire plug by unlocking and slipping it away from the valve. To install I did all this in reverse.