ADB1500AWS2 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

The repair was as easy as 1, 2, 3.. 1) Open box that the new dishrack was shipped in from PartSelect. 2) Take old and dry rotted dishrack out of my dishwasher. 3) Place new dishrack into my dishwasher.

Less than 5 minutes.

1. Fully opened door of dishwasher.
2. With star driver, removed 11 screws from the insde edge of door.
3. Outside front panel of door then is separated from inside panel slightly to again access to, latch assembly.
4. Verified that replacement part matched existing part.
5. Lifted out damaged latch assembly and disconnected the two electrical leads by gently pulling on the insulated connectors.
6. Connected the electrical leads to the coresponding connections on the new part and replaced in the reverse order of above.
7. Total time for repair was 15 minutes.

removed the cover to remove the door seal then replaced it with the new one and replaced the insulation strip

There was a tear in the fine filter (fabric) on the accumulator. This can be seen by looking in dishwasher without having to disassemble anything. Food was being sucked in and sprayed back out on dishes.

Disassembled, cleaned, replaced part then reassembled.

Cleaned out the spinning sprayers -- used toothpicks to clean out holes, flushed with water.

Cleaned out under the accumulator.

Works like new.

First shut circuit breaker to dishwasher and close water valve under the sink. Remove the screws that hold the dishwasher to the counter, then remove the bottom cover plates. I slid the diswasher out almost all the way...On the left side bottom I could see the old water inlet valve was attached by 2 hex screws and a clip with 3 wires..after removing the 2 screws and clip I was able to remove the water line (place something to catch a small amount of water) and remove the black rubber hose from the old intake valve by squeezing the clip.. Removed the brass nut from the old valve you'll need it. I installed the new water inlet valve by connecting the old brass nut
(replace with new thread seal tape) , replace the water line and black rubber hose...attach to frame with the 2 hex screws and replace clip with wires...I slid the dishwasher back under the counter, turned the water on and power back on...I ran the dishwasher before I secured it in place to check for leaks...Dry as a bone...I then secured it to the counter and replaced the bottom plates.. the dishwasher is working like new...everything comes out spotless...Sometimes repairs are not as hard as they look, just take your time.

First I removed two bottom plates (two screws on each) Then I pulled dishwasher out about six inches. That's as far as it would go because I did not disconnect the water and drain hoses. That was enough to remove the broken cable and collect the disabled spring. I then reattached the new cable to the spring and reworked them into position. NOTE: There is a right and left cable and spring set-up. I used the "good" side as a guide. I then pushed the dishwasher back into place and replaced the two bottom plates.

Remove the 4 screws at the lower panel, turn power off to dishwasher, remove single 1/4 attaching screw from float switch, open the door remove the old float assembly. Make sure you install the float in the machine first than side the switch over the end of the float before screwing it back in.

We followed the instructions in the video online to replace the latch assembly. Removing the electric wires from the old latch assembly was difficult; I read that others had trouble with that too. Two of us worked together. I inserted a screwdriver between the plastic box shaped thing holding the wires and the old latch assembly --- between the two metal pieces that extended from the latch into the plastic box shaped thing. I pushed the screwdriver thru until I could hold both ends. I held tightly while my partner pulled the latch assembly off of the wires. Repeat for the wires on the other side. Pretty easy. So happy to have fixed it ourselves.

First and foremost, turn off the power to the dishwasher at the breaker panel. Next, open the door and remove all of the Torx screws along the door edge, except the bottom two. The inner skin will open enough, and there is sufficient slack in the wires, to change out the latch assembly without completely removing the whole inner door skin. Next, remove the wire harness plug from the right switch and then insert it onto the right switch of the new assembly. Do the same with the wires for the left switch. Note, you may need a pair of pliers to remove the wire connector from the switches. Place the switch back in place, lining up the screw holes properly, and replace all of the Torx screws. Turn the breaker back on and you are done.

Not only could I get the part from PartSelect.com quicker than I could from Sears, the total cost with shipping was the same as Sears wanted for just he part!

I pulled the dishwasher out from under the countertop. It was quit easy to get to in the lower left front corner of the appliance. I loosened up the bracket that was holding the valve in place. Removed the wires, and taped and ID them so that I would know which one went where. Removed the hose clamp, pulled the hose off and removed the old valve. Put the new one back in just as I removed the old one in the same order. It was a snap! This is not the first time I have used PartSelect! Our evaporate fan went out on our refrigerator a couple years ago, replaced that. A shelf broke in our refrigerator twice, each one different at different times bought both from Part Select. This is the first place I look for help with repairs! I at least attempt to save money, then if it's too difficult I will hire a repairman. So Far, PartSelect has saved me a lot of money on doing it myself! Thanks PartSelect for making small repairs easy to tackle yourself, along with reasonable prices for parts!

after reading a article on problems the logic one was frist the door. Order the part ,took off the inter panel with star slot (10)exposed the handle and switch. Removed it, abit hard at frist,then replacement went in easy , the washer worked.
I guess I was lucky because on the other side of handle similar type of part thats maytag for you.

Spent 1 hr following video. Difficulty was taking part apart & attaching new latch handle to latch assembly. Called PS tel support & spoke w/Breanna who was patient & tried her best to coach me. Sent photos to her via email to show what part looked like. Her boss discovered latch was attached upside down. Tried very hard to reattach in the correct direction. To no avail. Was advised to call Whirlpool tech. Instead, contacted handyman to complete repair.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

The big problem is that you cannot purchase the wheels only. I found that out after ordering the rack track because that looked like what I needed. But it didn't come with the wheels. So I returned it. Then I went to the basement and found things in my junk boxes and fixed it without purchasing the complete parts. Cost: 10 cents for two nuts vs $60 for the required parts.