ADB1500AWQ1 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

1 - Unscrew the back of the dishwasher with a hex-type driver. The latch assembly will be resting inside the outer door assembly. Make sure power is turned off to the washer - there are a couple of "hot" wires that will attach to the latch assembly.

2 - Unplug the wires from the old latch and plug into new latch assembly.

3 - Place the latch assembly back in place and re-attach the two door pieces together.

4 - Turn power back on at the breaker.

5 - Load dishwasher with the stuff that's been sitting in your sink.

6 - Gloat to spouse/significant other that you just saved $100 by fixing it yourself.

Just a quick note of thanks for shipping the replacement handle for my Maytag dishwasher.  Service was superquick and I was able to save big bucks (no service call).  I called on Saturday evening and the part was here on Tuesday.  The young lady who helped me was awesome and a Pens fan to boot.  I seldom send these types of emails but my experience was worth sharing.

You just remove the old unit and set in the new unit. the wheels were already connected.

1. Turned of Power via circuit breaker
2. Opened Dishwasher
3. Removed back of door (11) hex screws with electric driver
4. Removed latch assembly
5. Pried contacts from switches
6. One switch was more difficult to pry loose than the other
7. You will probably need a plier
8. Switch or connector may break but latch assembly comes with switches, so you just need to be careful not to break the connectors
8 Plugged connectors into new switches on latch assembly
9. Replaced latch assembly
10. Replaced door with (11) hex screws - two top screws hold assembly in place
11. Turned on circuit breaker and tested machine
12. Finished

Comments: This latch assembly was better constructed than the original and I expect it to last the life of the machine. If one of the switches wasn't so difficult to pry loose, then the repair would have taken ten minutes less to repair. Well worth the effort. Repair time was probably 20-30 minutes.

I know that I have very hard water, but am reluctant to get a softener. I hope that changing the "guts" of the water delivery to my dishwasher will help...already replaced the filters which helped too... so far, it's a little better.

Installation was a breeze. Took off the upper, middle and lower spray arms. Had to loosen screws in filter assembly to remove old manifold. Popped everything into place... had to scrape mineral deposits off clips that support manifold and upper spray arms.
Easy...

easy repair. The foam has to go over some wires but if you stretch it alittle as you place it all goes well

After checking repair places who wanted $140-$200 to repair the handle (most of it labor and transportation of course) I checked this website and read the do it your self testimonials the first one being wendy from florida and figured if she could do it so could I. . . Wasn't quite as confident as her so found a handy person (charged me $30). It was a "piece of cake" -- remove the 11 screws (allen screwdriver), unclip the wires to the handle (pliers), clip in the new one, replace the screws. I could have done it myself. Took 15 minutes.

I had two problems with the dishwasher. The latch handle was broken and a line crack developed on the control panel just above the handle area.

1. Ordered the Latch Handle (LATCH ASSY (BLACK) MA) (Series 10); Part # PS1559543 from PartSelect. (Maytag’s part number is 99003347). PS1559543 received from PartSelect includes the latch, latch handle, and two switches.
2. Disconnected power to dishwasher. (I put the washer on timer mode; the control panel lighted up; turned off power supply at the circuit breakers box; control panel light was off; confirming that power was cut).
3. Opened the door, removed the torx T-20 screws from the inner panel (I used a cordless drill and one of the star shaped screw tip from a cheap Craftmans screw tips set)
4. The inner panel slid down down enough to expose the latch assembly. Since the latch assembly was held in place by the two of the screws removed, it was now only attached to two sets of wires through the switches on both sides of the latch assembly.
5. The next thing to do was to connecting the wires to the new latch assembly. I chose to use the switches on the old latch assembly. There were plastic hooks holding them in place. The switches readily slid out by slightly push back the hooks. There is a little knob on the switch, and had to be pushed back to slide into the new latch assemble.
6. To fix the line crack, I used a toothpick to apply plastic glue on both sides of the crack. Then lined up the latch assembly with the control panel and the dishwasher’s inner internal panel, put back the two top middle two torx T-20 screw to hold them in place. Excess glue was wiped off with paper towel wet with isopropyl alcohol. This saved me the expense of ~$60 for a new control panel. Don’t use crazy glue, it will discolor the plastic.
7. Put back the screws at four corners, then the rest. I set the clutch of the cordless drill at 2 so that the screws were not over tightened.
8. Let the glue dried overnight. The crack was fixed, the latch assembly works like when the dishwasher was new.

1. Removed door inside plastic panel, 2. Removed additional screws holding panel to hinge brackets and control panel, 3. Figured out that this would all have been easier if I'd unhooked door hinge springs first (access from sides), 4. Removed isulation from old panel and reglued to new panel, 5 Reassembled, hooking up door springs last. Voila!

Removed 10 torx head screws from around perimeter of door (two of these screws hold door latch and handle). Unplug two wires from handle assembly and replace old handle with new. Reinstall 10 perimeter screws and job is complete.

Pulled out the old one and put in the new one!

No repair needed, just inserted the new dishrack. My only complaint is the lack of upright tongs in half of the rear section of the rack. This limits the number of dishes that can be stored. My original rack had tongs in all areas which better suited my needs. If there is a replacement that better suits my needs I would like an exchange.

I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.

Turned off the power at the panel board. Took off the front panel. (The screws are torque screws, so you need that kind of driver). Removed the two electric leads. They are just connector type leads going to the switches. Pluged the leads onto the correct sides of the new latch assembly and reversed the procedure to put the panel back in place.

Took off broken handle and replaced it with the new one.

I removed the main plastic bolt with a pliers and then just used a screwgun with a star tip for all the screws.
I am a 43 year old woman with no experience and I was able to figure it out. The machine cleans much better now.