ADB2500AWS40 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed inside cover.
removed part.
disconnected switches.
plugged wires onto new part.
placed part in.
put inside cover on and screwed down.
Note: be careful of the bottom of the inside cover.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

Took a while to figure out what had to be done. Brackets have to go under the metal frame which involves dropping the compartment. That is done by removing the screws which are hidden under the door gasket. Once I knew what had to be done it was simple.

First, shut off the circuit that the dishwasher is on. Remove the 10 - 12 screws that secures the inside waterproof panel to the door. There are two electrical connections are either side of the handle (latch assembly) that need to be removed. No need to disconnect any other connections or reservoirs. The handle comes right out. Seat the new one in door front opening. Reconnect the electrical leads and reseat the interior panel. I would put in the 2 screws are either side of the handle first; then the 2 at the bottom on either side and then the remaining. This is a very easy DIY job.

Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.

After receiving the latch assembly, which arrived rather quickly, I found the handle itself was not enclosed in the package. Therefore this repair was delayed and after several calls to the 1-800 number I was informed the company had discontinued the distrubution of the handle. They offered a full refund, however I'm still waiting for the return labels so as to ship the latch back.

Now on the brighter side, the company representative put me in touch with a local distributor that did carry the latch/handle assembly as one piece and for a lot less money.

For those who are attempting the repair, don't worry, It was very simple. Just remove hex screws, lift the inside panel, unplug the two connectors and insert the new assemply.

Must say my wife was very happy to have the dishwasher up and running again.

Good luck !

The reason this story is important is the purchase of the part was more difficult than the repair. Original attempts from another company had the wrong part delivered three times. I was ready to give up until I recieved help from PartsSelect.coms professional sales people. I recieved the correct part the first time. The repair was completed by first securing electrical power to the unit. I was able to isoplate the breaker which feeds this appliance. I removed the 10 Screws from the inner door panel to gain access to the latch and Control Panel. Using two(2) small blocks of wood I was able to prop the innner door and latch assembly up away from my work. I then removed the two screws which hold the control board to the panel and disconnected the ribbon cable attached to the control planel from the control board by pulling straight out on the cable. I was then able to remove the broken control panel and replace it with the new one. The control panel was held in place by four (4) screws.
CAUTION: Do not overtighten screws going into the plastic control panel it will crack. Reassmbly was accomplished in the reverse order with the following steps modified. To reconnect the ribbon cable to the control board it was easier if I removed the one screw holding the Top Housing board from the Control board. I was able to reinsert the ribbon cable by pushing the cable straight into the connector. I then reconnected the the Top housing board to the control board. The other step that required care was insuring the latch assembly holes lined up correctly and the latch was properly aligned for assembly. The rest was completed in reverse order.

Ensure to order part # PS1559543, which is the complete assembly although the diagram doesn't show this, and not PS2100626 which doesn't include the handle. The new assembly is a different style than the original therefore you should replace the complete assembly.

This was an easy fix. Remove the eleven torque screws on the door and separate the inner door panel enough to remove the old assembly. Remove the wire connections from the door switches, reconnect to the new assembly, and reinstall the assembly and inner door panel.

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

Dishwasher is in our summer cabin in Colorado so everything has to be drained for the winter. Not really sure whether this leak was freeze caused or that the valve was just old. Couldn't find a crack when I got the old one apart; might have been just an O ring needed. Anyway, just follow the video provided by this site for replacement of the valve; really easy. Biggest hassle for us was getting the dishwasher out (and back in) as it was wrapped in insulation which made the fit really tight. Thought I had everything I needed when I started but didn't have teflon tape which is needed for the brass fitting connecting the water supply to the valve (fitting is in your old valve and will be reused with the new one).

1. Shut off water supply

- Remove water line and drain hose if you need to. I was able to simply move the dishwasher forward some to do this repair without disconnecting

2. Remove access panels on the bottom.
3. Open the door
4. Remove Door Gasket carefully (do not stretch)
5. Use torque 20 driver to remove 6 screws that were under the gasket

- Some of the screws were rusted for me so I had to use kroil, a pick to clean out rust, and a hammer to help get the torque driver in enough to remove the screws. A local hardware store had replacements.

6. Use Phillips screwdriver to remove screws holding mounting brackets
7. Carefully move dishwasher out some (Careful if you have a copper water hose you may want to disconnect it)
8. Remove the strike if it is attached above the metal bar
9. Lift the metal bar and push down on the tub to make room to remove the old mounting brackets (slide them up, forward, and to the side)
10. Put new mounting brackets in place (put mounting bracket under bar, slide over into place)
11. Reverse the order at this point.

Be careful not to stretch the gasket. I soaked mine in vinegar for a bit and gently washed with dish soap to remove deposits.

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First, turn the power off to the dishwasher. Then removed several screws that hold the panel in place. These are mostly on the side of the panel door. I then pulled the old panel and put the new one in.

Used utube to replace the inner seal. Did not stop the leak completely, had to replace the entire door seal and level the machine.I did the inner seal myself, but had a repairman under our homeowner warranty do the rest.

We unscrewed the inner door panel and pulled it apart, disconnected the wiring, removed the screws holding the dispenser in place and swaped it out. One problem we had putting everything back together was that the latch for the door didn't line up and we couldn't shut the door but we simply unscrewed the door, readjusted the latch and put it back together. Works great now!