ADB2500AWB Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

The repair was as easy as 1, 2, 3.. 1) Open box that the new dishrack was shipped in from PartSelect. 2) Take old and dry rotted dishrack out of my dishwasher. 3) Place new dishrack into my dishwasher.

Less than 5 minutes.

As others have described once you slide the dishwasher out and tilt it for access you simply remove the discharge (use something to catch the water), torx screw that secures the bracket to the unit, and twist counter clockwise until the pump is free from the drain tub. Reassemble in reverse order

First shut circuit breaker to dishwasher and close water valve under the sink. Remove the screws that hold the dishwasher to the counter, then remove the bottom cover plates. I slid the diswasher out almost all the way...On the left side bottom I could see the old water inlet valve was attached by 2 hex screws and a clip with 3 wires..after removing the 2 screws and clip I was able to remove the water line (place something to catch a small amount of water) and remove the black rubber hose from the old intake valve by squeezing the clip.. Removed the brass nut from the old valve you'll need it. I installed the new water inlet valve by connecting the old brass nut
(replace with new thread seal tape) , replace the water line and black rubber hose...attach to frame with the 2 hex screws and replace clip with wires...I slid the dishwasher back under the counter, turned the water on and power back on...I ran the dishwasher before I secured it in place to check for leaks...Dry as a bone...I then secured it to the counter and replaced the bottom plates.. the dishwasher is working like new...everything comes out spotless...Sometimes repairs are not as hard as they look, just take your time.

Remove the 4 screws at the lower panel, turn power off to dishwasher, remove single 1/4 attaching screw from float switch, open the door remove the old float assembly. Make sure you install the float in the machine first than side the switch over the end of the float before screwing it back in.

Unfortunatly if the plasic handle breaks you will need to purchase the handle/latch assy. However it comes complete with the interlock switches so it made the repair quite simple. . . Removal of the inner door panel also releases the handle/latch assy. Unplug the interlock sws. And install the new hanle/latch assy. While putting the inner door panel back in place. . . Clean up the mess you made and it's done. . . 1/2 To 3/4 of an hour and part of that is rounding up the tools you. . .

1). Unplug Appliance
2). Open Door of Appliance all the way.
3). Remove screws around inside edge of door but do not
remove inside panel. Leave it lay there on the door.
4). Slightly seperate inside face of door at the top of
the door inside enough to access the plug-in latch
unit.
5). Unplug 2 plugs on electric latch and remove broken
latch. (Screws around inside door panel held latch)
6). Substitute New Latch For Old Latch
7). Plug in 2 plugs on new latch and put latch in place
8). Replace screws around inside edge of door
9). Close Door and Re-open to ensure that new latch works
10). Plug In Appliance

First I removed two bottom plates (two screws on each) Then I pulled dishwasher out about six inches. That's as far as it would go because I did not disconnect the water and drain hoses. That was enough to remove the broken cable and collect the disabled spring. I then reattached the new cable to the spring and reworked them into position. NOTE: There is a right and left cable and spring set-up. I used the "good" side as a guide. I then pushed the dishwasher back into place and replaced the two bottom plates.