DWUA500AAX Admiral Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed dishwasher door liner and removed soap dish door latch assembly. Removed latch from assembly and replaced with new latch. Had trouble replacing assembly in correct sequence. Had to go on line and look at sequence picture to replace assembly correctly. Installed new gasket and replaced liner in door. The new gasket and latch solved my leak problem.
Thank you PartSelect

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

Ordered 3 parts first ..all came within two biz days..forgot the toe panel, called it was here the next day! The people that assisted me were wonderful! My husband did the repair. the dishwasher looks like new!!!!! I will order from Part Select again and again...extremley pleased. Now if only we could cover the Refrigerator in Black it would look like a whole new kitchen!

removed lower dish basket. then removed 3 screws lifted element cover and removed center hold down nut lifted spray nozzle nad installed new parts. dishwasher is working like new.
thanks for asking.

Remove screws holding the inside of the door. Set lid aside. Pull out the old foam insulation. Clean the area. Replace with new foam insulation. Put door back together.

I used a voltmeter to see if 120 volts was present at the right time in the cycle; it was, so the actuator was the likely culprit. I ordered one on a Monday afternoon about 2:30, and it appeared on my doorstep Tuesday, shortly after noon! It took less than 15 minutes to replace the actuator - removing the 7 Phillips-head screws, lifting the panel, popping out the upper actuator, removing the two wires, putting them on the new actuator, popping it in and putting the panel back on. Worked like a charm. Happy wife . . .

Pulled out the old gasket and pressed in the new one. No more leakage.

romoved 3 screws, removed spray arm support nut. pulled off spray arm support, replaced new spray arm support and spray arm support nut

Popped off the plactic screen filter (3 screws). Droped in the new Spary Arm and put back together.

You guys are AWESOME! I ordered the part on a Wednesday afternoon and received it Thursday morning. So all and all I didn't even have to wash any dishes by hand.

I pulled out the old gasket and put in the new one. You need to stretch it a bit as you guide it in the track.
It was very easy but did not solve the problem.
Apparently, Maytag dishwashers are known for a leaky soap dish which I figured out after the door gasket was replaced. The problem is usually with the soap dish latch. You need to take the inner door off, disassemble the soap diehs, out a new gasket and latch on, reassemble, and you should be all set.

The dripping water was coming from bottom right side of the door, almost directly beneath the detergent dispenser. Looking closely at the drips, I could see that they were coming from saturated insulation that is between the inner and outer door layers. I took the inside piece of the door apart and sure enough I could see water had been getting through the door latch and running down the inside of the door. I could see that the grommet around the door latch was cracked and brittle, so I replaced it and was pretty sure that would resolve the problem. But when I put the door all back together and did a test run, I had a leak even bigger than the first, but this leak appeared to be through the door seal at the bottom right. I then ordered a new door seal, which took only 5 minutes to replace and resolved the leak. I think the old door seal was too worn out at that spot and just by removing and replacing the inside door layer, it must have not made a good seal at that point. But I recommend starting with the door latch and grommet first, since that is a $4 part, and then proceeding with the door seal, a $43 part, only if necessary.

Access to the soap dispenser is easy just screws. One of the two hex head screws that hold the mechanism assembly is buried by a lever and required a with a special offset wrench, I used bent needle nosed pliers to loosen and remove the screw quarter turn at a time. The blocking lever was a snap-in and maybe could have been removed with high force, not generally recommended for 14 year old plastic parts. In hindsight I would use a digital camera to record the mechanism, due to a absence of any detail cartoons of the assembly. The lever arm load spring required tweezers to remove and re-install.

Assumed that the door gasket needed replacing so I went to Partselect.com. Ordereed the gasket and was about to check out when I noticed the comments from others. Decided to look and was glad I did! Almost everyone said that the gasket on the soap dipenser latch on their door gasket repair was bad also so I ordered the latch gasket too. Parts arrived in only two days. I was amazed.
I started by turning the power off at the panel box, then removing the door gasket and cleaning the gasket groove. Then it was a simple matter of pushing the gasket into place, avoiding stretching or compressing it. Removing the gasket and putting in the new one was only about 3 minutes work - however cleaning the groove took somewhat longer. Then unscrewed the 7 torex screws on the interior door plastic panel. Carefully work the panel free, study the solenoid to see how it pops out and it attached, remove the solenoid and the panel is free of the door.
Examine the interior workings of the soap dispenser to see how it all fits. The remove the two hex head screws with a nut driver and carefully remove the assembly. Notice how the latch gasket fits with its boot in the notch on the latch base. The old boot was completely torn from the gasket base on mine. I cleaned accumulation of soad and crud from the mechanism and from the interior side of the door panel. Put it all back together in reverse order. The cleaning took longer thna the actual repairs.
Thank goodness for the comments - saved me a ton of aggravation!!! Partselect.com rules!

Removed front access panel
Disconnected water supply
Pulled dishwasher out approximately 1 foot to gain access to spring linkage
Connected new spring linkage to spring, connected other end of spring linkage to door
Tested operation of door
Slid dishwasher back into place, reconnected water supply and front access panel

I disconnected the dish washer and pulled it out. I laid it on its back, unplugged the electrical wires,removed the electrical magnet and pried the shaft seal out with a flat screwdriver. I gently packed the new seal into place with the flat screwdriver. I connected the electrical magnet and wires. I then installed the dish washer and ran it through a cycle. I am pleased to say the dish washer does not leak now.