RC8200XVF1 Whirlpool Cooktop - Instructions

Simple to do. Remove old element, remove screw holding socket, cut the socket wires with 2 inches to spare, assemble the newsocket and wires with heat shrink tubing, strip range wires, apply the wire nuts as instructed and shrink the tubning with a heat gun.

Screw on the socket to the range. Shut the lid and install the element.

The replacemnet screw is thicker than the original one, so you might want to drill out the hole very slightly. I did not but the resistance was high on getting the screw fully seated.

Works great

Started out removing the old clip that didnt hold burner element down anymore. It was a bit rough, since i was taking off a rivet. I used the screwdriver to carefully wedge the edges of the rivet upward so that i could get the wire cutters underneath it enough to snap the head off. After some fanagling for about 20 minutes, i popped it off. The rest of the repair went like cake, and i am soooo thankful that the replacement part i ordered from you included a screw and a nut. Next time, if there is a next time, this repair could be done in 2 minutes. THANK YOU FOR SAVING THANKSGIVING AND A $100 REPAIRMAN SERVICE COST FOR A $10 PART!!!

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

I just had to pull out the old burner and straighten the prongs for the new burner and insert, The prongs of the new burner were slightly bent in shipment, but were easy to straighten with the pliers. The burners were sent in a bag and not a box -- therefore the prongs were easily bent. I was very pleased that I (73 year old lady) was able to fix my stove without a repairman. Saved $$$

Simple, just pull out old burners and slide new ones in place. Tried both, they work excellent!

I removed surface burner and drip pan from stove. Then drilled out the remaining part of the old stabilizer clip. Once clip was removed I installed the new stabilizer clip with the screw and nut that came with the clip. Then I placed the drip pan back into position and installed the burner and locked it into the new clip.

Unplugged old burner elements. Popped in new burners. Turned on the burners to test.

Replaced with the new burner works like new. Thanks a bunch!

I had to remove the original clips (broken or damaged). This was the hardest part -- the clips were held on by rivets (not screws), so I had to pound/punch them out (using care so not to damage the stove top). Once I punched the rivet out all that remained was a small hole, I just used the small nut and bolt that came with my stablizer clip kit and mounted the new clips. Everything worked out fine.

Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch.
NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795!
I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!

I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.

The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.

I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.

I have reinstalled the earlier unit.

Is part# PS 11744446 no longer available?



James E Weimholt. jmwm4031@verizon.net

Drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16 th drill bit and tapped off screw head.

Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!