GJC3634RB00 Whirlpool Cooktop - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Larry from RADCLIFF, KY
- Parts Used:
- W10823692
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dual Surface Element went out
Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.
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- Customer:
- Rita from COOPERSBURG, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Burned out burnrr
Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.
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- Customer:
- Sergio from JENSEN BEACH, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner did not heat up
Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.
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- Customer:
- James from HILTON, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Coil shorted out.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
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- Customer:
- Mary from Duarte, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10355051
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
cleaner
just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you
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- Customer:
- Gerald from Hedgesville, WV
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
RIght rear burner on glasstop range stopped working
Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.
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- Customer:
- Joel from Dillon, SC
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
burner not as hot as it should be
I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.
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- Customer:
- Edwin from Christoval, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10823692
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dual element burned out
A breeze. Lifted top, propped it, removed defective element, disconnected wire modules,connected modules to new element, fastened new element, closed top.
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- Customer:
- Jayson from Cape Coral, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
1200 watt r/rear burner element has an opening in the elementg
Shut off 220 volt power to range. Removed two screws for cooktop element access. Used needle-nose pliers to remove power (2) and control (2) lugs and wires. Remove defective cooking element module, replaced. Reverse steps for new unit.
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- Customer:
- Nelson from San Juan Capistrano, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP9759474
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bad swith
Its is very easy.Thakns for your tips.They take 30 minuts
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- Customer:
- Bob from Aberdeen, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W10823692
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Center of Front Burner not heating up
Ceramic cooktop: Turn off power to the unit. remove long "locking" screws from underside of the unit; remove clips (may take a little effort if they are "frozen" in place) From underneath unit lift it up and out of the counter - do not try to lift from ceramic top- remove 4 control knobsun - remove 12 screws (3 per side) attaching ceramic top to the unit - carefully work ceramic top off the bottom frame; its a friction fit - do not force it. Place ceramic top in a safe, flat space. Note the orientation of the burner - you will need to replace the new one in the exact same orientation - also note the connections on the existing unit and match them to where they will go on the new unit. (note: my old unit had a black wire that was replaced by a solid metal strip) work the wire clips off the existing unit, flip it ove and note the number on the "clock face" where the spring clips attach. You may need to drill a small pilot hole from the top side. remove the spring clips from the old unit and place them on the new unit. These clips align the unit in the proper location and provide proper contact with the bottom of the ceramic top. Replace the top gentley working it onto the base and replace the 12 screws. Place the unit back in the countertop being careful to lift up to reposition so you don't disturb the foam tape along the edge of the opening. Replace the clips in the side of the unit, replace the mounting screws, replace the control knobs, turn power back on. You should be done. Takes about 30 minutes.
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- Customer:
- clarence from norwalk, CT
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
no problem
i did fine
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- Customer:
- Juan from Miami, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Glass top stove burner not working
OMG you have no idea how grateful I am. My husband and I watched your how-to-video and decided that it looked pretty easy for us to replace on our own. We saved close to $200 between the flat fee for a service call plus labor. Thank you very much. We were also pleased how fast our part was shipped to us.
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- Customer:
- Lacey from Raleigh, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10823692
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
2 burners burned out of flat top stove
I can't believe how easy this was to fix. 1. Unplug the stove. 2. remove the screws that hold the stove top in place. 3. pull the top up, unplug the electrical wires and unscrew the ground wire 4. remove the stove top and flip it over. 4. unscrew braces holding the burners in place. 5. with pliers, remove the wire connections between stove top and old burners 6. replace with new burners. 7. reattach everything. And you're done! Go brag to the neighbors about what you just did.
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- Customer:
- Stephanie from Phoenix, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
"Hot burner" Light always On
It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.
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