6898XRA Magic Chef Cooktop - Instructions

The repair was very easy. There were 3 screws under the front lip which had to be removed. This allowed the smooth glass top to be removed, tilt and pull forward. This exposed the burners and the unit I purchased was a direct replacemt for the burnt unit. All I had to do was remove the electrical clips from the old unit and put them on the new unit. There were 3 spring elements, each with 2 screws, which held the unit in place.

Ok this is a glasstop jenn air cce3531b, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since I had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. Thanks you partselect

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.

Pull out the range...hardest part.
Remove back panel.
Remove/install switch
PS,
This is second switch I had to replace. Try making them in the United States.

This range was easy. Only 4 screws under the front panel that allows the panel to come off. No need to pull the range out for back screws.

Replacement part was exact and worked perfect.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the range.

Remove the 4 screws under the front panel, one on each end and one one each side of the display/control panel.

Pull the bottom of the front panel out about 30 degrees and lift off the top.

Once panel is off pull of the dial knob, remove the two screws for the control and swap wires on at a time with the new one.. Reverse the procedure and all is good. You may need to use needle nosed pliers on the spade connectors if they are too tight to pull off by hand.

unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Changing out the switch was easy. Paid attention to wire connections to avoid mixup. Removal and installation of the switch was easy. It's the back panels that gave me the most challenge. Used screwdrivers and needle nose pliers to do repair. Having a second set of hands for the two part back panel reinstall was most helpful, but can be accomplished by 1 person.
Burner works great. This is a easy DIY fix.

replaced control

I followed the instructions as provided. When I finished I noticed the switch was 1/4 turn out from the off position mark on the stove. So I pulled the stove back out and took the back panel off again pulled the knobs back off took out the screws that held the switches in place and rotated the switch 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then I replaced all the screws and knobs . Then I replaced the panel and shoved the stove back in place. One of the burners was an eight inch and the switch doesn't work as well as it could. However there was not a direct replacement for the eight inch burner.

removed several screws, removed old controller, installed new controller buttoned back up works perfect

removed 4 screws lifted off the face with switches replaced the bad switch and put the face plate back on. if you have any concerns just watch the video , part select has posted its great

Removed unit from counter, removed 14 screws holding glass top to frame, removed ceramic element, swapped over mounting brackets to new element, checked wireing as per instruction sheet (direct replacement) connected wires, re-installed glass top to frame and placed back into counter. ops check good.