8241RV Magic Chef Cooktop - Instructions

The repair was a no brainer - twist to release the old burner - disconnect the spark wires. connect the spark wires on the new unit - drop it in and twist to lock - about 2 minute job

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

1. I accessed the burner ignition switches by lifting off stove top, sliding off burner knobs and oven knob, and removing the front switch cover (secured with 4 screws on top and 2 screws underneath).

2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.

After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.

Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.

3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.

While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.

4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.

Watched u tube video as supplied and followed instructions. Had trouble getting burners off so cleaned around edge of burners with fine bladed knife as suggested by other forum user and used oil filter type wrench to remove burner. There are three bumps on burner that hold it in place so need to turn anti clockwise to remove.

using the diagram shown on line Looked up the ignition module and ordered it by phone. Received it the next day and installed it within the hour. Previously I had called the repairman and he said it would be a couple of weeks before he could look at it and a service call was $75 plus parts..I fixed it for the cost of the module $34. I am very satisfied.

I have a maytag stove and the burner was coroted and it had to be replaced. I went seaching in the Internet for a new stove automatically then I thought maybe I can buy the part so I found this awesome website partselect.com. I was intrigue to see if I can find this part I needed so I put in the model number in an seached and then I placed the order not only for the burner but for the grates as well the website is designed very well! Easy to navigate to find the items your looking for. When I recieved the parts in the mail it took me less than 6 minutes to attach the burner and place the grates on the stove it was a great experience all the way around. I would recommed this web site to anyone.

Very easy. I disconnected the original burner with one turn as well as the two wire connections for the electronic igniter. I then connected the wires to the same positions on the new burner and placed the new burner in place with one half turn to match the indented openings to secure the burner tightly in place.

Went well

Unscrew the burners an install new ones! Anyone could do this.

I just twist the burner, pulled it out, disconect the two wires. Reconect the wires to the new burner and placed back .

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

Make sure all burners on stove top are off.Half twist burner top to separate burner from stove top.The burner slide fits over the metal tube that transports the gas to the burner.Remove the 2 slip fit connected wires from the underside of the burner.They should be of different sizes so no worries about incorrectly re-attaching them.The igniter has 2 philips screws holding the igniter to the burner, Remove those and the igniter will be able to be removed with a little wiggling.Insert new igniter thru the hole in the burner and secure with the 2 screws. Reattach wires , place burner back on top making sure the wires aren't being crimped when the burner slides over the aforementioned metal tube and twist burner to seat in stove top, turn on burner to confirm igniter now ignites properly.

I removed the old module ,replaced new bracket,crimped new wire lugs on wires. being an electrician for 50 plus years helped.      Thanks   Lloyd

My husband simply twisted out the old burner with a pliers and attach the new burner. Simple and easy....

part was by the brolier drawer inside under stove removed 2 screws on cover/ part was attached to cover removed module line 1-2 fit/ had to use supplied disconects crimped on 4 burner wire leads/taped around module w/ elec. tape put back 2 screws finished. works now.