KGCD807XSS00 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

I lifted the burner tray from stove turned it upside down then removed six small screws from side of cover pan then I removed the cover then I removed the screws from the back of the old burners and igniter.Then I turned the old burner counter clockwise and it lifted out easly. the igniter is removed with no problem. The new burner is put in place and turned clockwise to lock in place.Then replace then the gas tubes and igniter and igniter wire then put tray cover on.

A crack in the porcelain caused the spark to not go in the proper direction, therefore the burner would not ignite. To have the job done by a professional would have cost $200.00 plus parts. Remove two phillips screws lift the burner out then remove the one phillips screw that held the electrode. Then with the new electrode in place reverse the previous steps.

My mother is a great cook that is always in a hurry ... and I know that she is not always pushing those plastic knobs DOWN before turning them. Frustrated with reordering these expensive plastic knobs,I decided to get smart. I reordered 6 knobs (this is the 3rd time in 2 years). These knobs are designed to break. I decided to reinforce the plastic that goes around the knob shafts. At first, I thought about using some rigid metal bird bands like on a parrot. I second thought that this would be too difficult to find the perfect size to fit the outside diameter of the knob, so I decided to buy slightly smaller diameter, tightly coiled, sturdy, steel springs to fit around the plastic that fits onto the shafts. I manipulated each spring to become slightly larger to fit over the plastic by twisting the spring in the direction of uncoiling it. Not permanently unbending it, but just enough to make it grow in diameter to fit around the outside. I clipped the excess wire from the spring with wire cutters and reinforcerd everything with a coat of good strong epoxy . It seems that the metal spring and epoxy bonded to the knob became SOLID AS A ROCK. I figured, if the plastic can't split from the D- SHAPED shaft, then we have a knob that is as good as if it were made out of metal.

Pushed the knob down on the spindle. Second order in three years.

bought new ones and pushed them onto D shaped posts total time 90 seconds they may break again in 10 years but I am to lazy to reinforce them

Simply took off the original knob and replaced it with the new one.

I removed the burner by unscrewing 2 torx head screws, disconnected wire from electrode, removed screw holding electrode, inserted new electrode,connected wire, installed burner and fired it up.

Ordered online Tuesday, delivery by FedEx on Wednesday. Removed the old "popped" in the new and it worked right away. It was that simple. Thanks so much.

Pulled off the old knobs, pushed the new ones on. Could not have been easier!

Simply unscrewed the old one and installed the new one and we have ignition!

The original knobs were poorly made and kept braking. After the third set, which were very expensive for some plastic knobs, I read this web page for help. Based on what I learned and what I read, I glued the metal sleeve in the knob shaft with some super glue. I then wrapped the shaft with copper wire and spread some industrial glue over the copper wrapping, which looked like a spring around the shaft. I have had no problems in the last month. I hope it keeps up.

After determining it would not be possible to replace the electrode only (rusted/corroded connection), ordered burner head with electrode. Part came in approx. 24 hours. Actual repair involved removing two screws (star-shaped head),disconnecting electrical clip, removing part, connecting electrical clip to new head, reinstalling two screws. Works great now!!

I ordered an entire new set even though I only needed 2...removed all of the old ones, threw away the broken ones and installed the entire set.

Screws holding burner base and ignitor were plain steel. If they had been stainless they probably would not have rusted in so tight. One in the base broke off, and the one holding the ignitor could not be removed, even with heat from a torch. I ended drilling it out and re-tapping the hole. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would have had to give up and order a new burner base.

Do not buy just the burner electrodes. The screws that hold the electrode will break off. Purchase the burner head with electrode. I would recommend placing anti-sieze lub on the new screw that holds the electrode to the burner head so if the electrode fails again it can be replaced. The screws that hold the burner head to the top top are mild steel and will rust and snap off. I would use a rust penatrent on these screws several days before trying to remove but most likely they will strip or break off. Replace all these burner head screws with stainless steel screws with anti-seize applied. If any of this sound difficult call a repair company.