KECD806RBL04 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

I ordered the part on line one morning and it was delivered the next morning. I was amazed at this because it said 3-5 days for delivery. I Opened up the range top and replaced the defective switch. This fixed the problem.

Repair video was very helpful. I have removed the screws on both sides of the appliance under the surface plate, in the front. The Owen door has to be open for that. Then I have pulled the surface plate for a little space to disconnect the two connectors. Turned the surface plate over on the kitchen table, removed the 6 screws. Turned the burners assembly over and removed the small burner by disengaging the two clips. I have removed the 2 clops from the burned burner and assembled it to the new burner. I have placed the burner and engaged the 2 clips with a crownose players. I have removed one electrical connecter at a time and connected to the new burner. I have turned over the assembly over the glass plate and assembled the back cover with 6 screws. Put the surface plate on the range and connected the 2 connectors, pushed back, lined it up with the 2 screw holes in front of the range on bot sides and put the 2 screws in and Finished.

I did exactly what your instruction video showed. The most important thing to remember is to TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Remove top oven door,remove two hex head screws located underneath cook top at the front on both sides,slid the range top forward approx. three(3) inches to obtain access needed to unplug the wiring harness, located behind the vertical part of the cook top,removed the cook top,placing it on a padded table with the glass side down,disconnected the three (3)wire spades and unscrewed three screws anchoring heating element to the cook top frame, replaced defective heating assembly with new. Repeated above steps noted above,in reverse order. And yes, all work was done after power was shut off at power panels dedicated oven circuit.

Shut off 220 volt power to range. Removed two screws for cooktop element access. Used needle-nose pliers to remove power (2) and control (2) lugs and wires. Remove defective cooking element module, replaced. Reverse steps for new unit.

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.

Replaced quickly. Got the filter in 2 days and replaced in 10 seconds. Thanks PartSelect!