KECC562GBT2 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

Removed glass surface and identified existing wiring (sketch, photo, schematics) before disconnecting and removing it. Installed the new switch and connected the wires using the supplied wiring instructions as well as my sketch and schematics. Appreciate that the new switch came with wire extenders and shrink tubing. Had to use both of them.
Replaced the glass top and installed it back into the counter ,Turned on the circuit breaker and everything worked perfect. Just want to mention that I am extremely satisfied with PartSelect service. It is second time I ordered cooktop part. The delivery is prompt and the parts work as required

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

We had been missing it for years. Perhaps it melted, maybe the dog. Anyway, Home Depot didnt have the match. I order the exact knob, received it in a very timely manner. Took it out of the package, and without any tool, placed it it it rightful spot. My wife is happy now. Thanks for helping me.

Followed the instructions in the switch kit. Unpluged range glass cook-top power cord. Lifted smooth cook-top out of counter hole. Removed about 10 sheet metal screws around box/glass surface interface. Removed all 5 infinite control power switch knobs vertically. Lifted glass cook-top from element box. Set cook-top aside on edge away from work area. Flipped switch control box cover and identified which switch was to be replaced. Noted colors and terminal post data. Replaced 1 wire at a time per the kit instructions. Reversed procedures. Turned unit on and confirmed proper function. That was it!

i did fine

It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.