62912104 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

pulled old one out , cleaned the area & replaced with the new one.

Removed the old grease screen and cleaned the entire area thoroughly and replaced the screen

I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!

Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.

I turned off the burner and allowed it to cool. I then checked the website for the part and also got a new grease filter and grill grate. When the parts came, I plugged in the new grill burner, replaced the grill grates, and dropped the filter in place. Total time was about 8 or 10 minutes--most of which was opening the packages. The grill burner is designed so that it can be removed and replaced with a standard 2 burner unit. No tools were needed. I was glad to find the parts for my 17 year old dual-fuel range.

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade

This repair was so easy. After I examined the faulty part, I removed the old switch fom the control box by using a pair of pliers to loosen the flange nut holding the old switch. I removed it, and put the new one in by reverse order. The old switch was actually the original switch- about 25yrs old. It took longer to open the box. I couldn't believe I could do it and how much I saved in doing it all myself!!!

My husband threw a pot holder on the hot (not lit) burner grate.The potholder melted on the grate and we were not able to remove the melted fabric. We ordered a new grate and it looked so good we ordered three more. I am planning to replace the burners next. We'll have a brand new looking cooktop. The cooktop is 15 years old.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

Unplug and pull range away from wall.
Remove metal panel from back of range by using nutdriver to remove 4 screws.
Use phillips scewdriver to remove 2 screws holding old spark module.
Unplug 4 wires from spark module and note placement of wires for reinstall.
Install new module by reversing procedure.
Slide range back against wall and plug in.

Entire process took less than 30 minutes.

NOTE: Spark Module received from partselect.com did not match old part exactly. The screw holes on the new part did not line up with screw holes from old part. I reinstalled new part with just 1 screw. Was told by partselect customer service that the part I received had been substituted and would work fine. It does work but it did not fit correctly.