62942975790 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.

The replacement unit was a substitute part. Wiring slightly different. Instructions bare minimum. Follow instructions and it does work. No instructions as to how to remove the stove top. Been there before so sort of knew how. Nothing in the Jenn Air manual for stove top removal. The control panel has to be removed, two screws on each side and four hex screws on bottom, this allows for the disconnect of wiring for the top.
Remove the two trim pieces one on each side. One screw at top and one at bottom. The trim piece will move towards the rear and come off. Two screws on each side and two in the back will release the top. Remove top and lay on padded surface. You are ready to replace unit.

My genius scientist husband responsible all electric string connections, I responsible buy right parts and all support work, we worked as a team and fix the problems:) :)

replaced burner by following the wiring from the photo we took. worked god except was cooking to hot and would not cycle. went to use my smaller burner in the back on the same side and the center of the double came on. so we watched another video looked at what we did wrong with the wiring. here we wired the burner slightly wrong we did not follow the numbering. this time followed the numbering and all is good. burner is working good and cycling.

I didn't repair anything because you sent me the wrong part! I submitted a claim to return it and it's been a week, and I have heard nothing from you. Horrible customer service, I'll be calling today.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

number to get the correct part was problem. item number was a whirlpool number. all other soureces i could not get the part. part selec t was able to come up the whirlpool item number. when i received the correct part it did not take long repair the problem. thank you for all your help.

Removed unit from counter, removed 14 screws holding glass top to frame, removed ceramic element, swapped over mounting brackets to new element, checked wireing as per instruction sheet (direct replacement) connected wires, re-installed glass top to frame and placed back into counter. ops check good.

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch