62922116 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part.
Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws.
turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good.
It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available

disassemble housing and remove fan and motor. Reatach fan to new motor, connect wiring, place gasket around motor and reassemble.

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.

Simple plug in.

Unplugged and removed the old grill element by hand and installed the replacement element by plugging it into the socket. Tools were not required for this and it took less than five minutes. The new element is great and heats much better than the original did before it broke.

I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).

First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!

Just replaced old with new, it plugs in same as old.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

Your staff helped me find the updated replacement that worked and when I was having some connection issues helped me get it right!

1. Turned off electrical breaker at electrical service panel.
2. Tested stove top to verify correct breaker was off as well as cook top.
3. Removed front electrical connection panel @ cook top.
4. Disconnected wires to blower fan. (Before disconnection I color coded wires for correct reconnection)
5. Removed the bracket holding the armored cable (protecting motor wires) and removed wires (where connects to electrical connection box).
6. Removed 4 nuts @ blower motor housing and removed blower motor housing and fan.
7. Removed 3 screws that attached the blower fan to the blower motor housing noting or marking the position of the housing to the motor bracket in order to have the same placement position.
8. Pulled the 3 connecting wires from the armored cable protector to separate housing from motor.
9. Removed the fan assembly from the blower motor shaft by using an allen wrench carefully noting the distance from motor face to the fan.
10. Noting/marking the position of the motor mounting bracket connections unscrew the nut and screw that secures the bracket to the motor.
11. Reassemble in reverse order.
Note:
I taped the motor wires tightly together every 3 or so inches to be able to slide through the armored cable.
I also had to rotate the mounting bracket a little to be able to perfectly match the motor housing to the motor bracket.

The new fan motor works great but it's a little bit louder.

First I removed the two screws that hold the chrome piece that had the switch in it. I had to disconnect the two lights that light up when the elements go on, had to do that to get to the lock washers that hold the switch in place. Put the new switch in place but couldnt get the new lock washers on the both broke, had to go to the hardware store and get new ones just as little bit bigger, they went on slick. The switch works great again, buy new lock washers before you start

Removed grill cover, two phillip screws on front end of the vent holding the switch assembly in place. Lifted the switch assembly and removed the two wires (plugged into lugs). Then removed the two universal nuts with a 3/8" nutdriver and removed the old switch. Cleaned area and put the new switch in place and replaced the universal nuts, then attached the wires. Replaced the switch assembly and the two holding screws. Then inserted the grill cover and Voila! Finished

I watched a You Tube video,removed and dismantled the door, installed the new hinge. I forgot to remove the small pin which is similar to a rivet. When I tried to close the door it bent. Eventually, I remembered the shipping pin and pulled it out with any damage. Believe it or not, I had read about the shipping pin on customer comments on PartsSelect...Good luck, it is relatively easy!

You probably want to look inside as you read this. Most of it is straightforward, except the retaining clips.

First, I turned off the breaker switch. Opening the control housing, I disconnected the two leads and wrote down their orientation (one is silver, the other copper). In my JennAir model, an orange burner light is on either side of the fan switch. The white plastic on the rear is held on by their keyhole shape - just slide them the only way they can. This gives extra working room.

Since the switch plastic was already decayed, I snapped off the whole central square unit leaving the 2 portions held onto the posts by the metal retaining clips. Using a small flathead screwdriver, I pried up the plastic remnants, working around it until the retaining clips came loose/ broke.

The new unit fit perfectly and easily. The new retaining clips needed to be worked down a small circular file to spread the centers out enough for me to work onto the retaining posts. The file was just barely bigger than the existing hole. The clips can be broken if you are too rough or work them too much. After that, I used a pair of snub nosed pliers to push the clips down the posts. They required a considerable amount of force, but they aren't going anywhere anytime soon.

Reconnect the lights, reconnect the 2 leads, and check for any loose wires from other controls and loose parts. Reseat the control housing, turn on the breaker and test.