JEC9536ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

My mother is a great cook that is always in a hurry ... and I know that she is not always pushing those plastic knobs DOWN before turning them. Frustrated with reordering these expensive plastic knobs,I decided to get smart. I reordered 6 knobs (this is the 3rd time in 2 years). These knobs are designed to break. I decided to reinforce the plastic that goes around the knob shafts. At first, I thought about using some rigid metal bird bands like on a parrot. I second thought that this would be too difficult to find the perfect size to fit the outside diameter of the knob, so I decided to buy slightly smaller diameter, tightly coiled, sturdy, steel springs to fit around the plastic that fits onto the shafts. I manipulated each spring to become slightly larger to fit over the plastic by twisting the spring in the direction of uncoiling it. Not permanently unbending it, but just enough to make it grow in diameter to fit around the outside. I clipped the excess wire from the spring with wire cutters and reinforcerd everything with a coat of good strong epoxy . It seems that the metal spring and epoxy bonded to the knob became SOLID AS A ROCK. I figured, if the plastic can't split from the D- SHAPED shaft, then we have a knob that is as good as if it were made out of metal.

First I shut off the power to the stove top and the electrical breaker box. I found that the stove top was stuck to the counter top surface; a butter knife was used to break the old seal by inserting it under the lip of the stove top and slowly broke the seal by going all the way around the lip. Then I lifted the cook top out of the counter. I had to remove the entire sheet metal bottom enclosure for easier access to the switch compartment. I removed the 2 screws holding the old switch in place. I installed the new switch. Using the wiring diagram, included in the packaging of the switch, I labeled each connector with the proper colored wire, physically traced each wire to be certain it matched the wiring diagram. I removed the wires from the old switch, using a pair of needle nose pliers to prevent any damage to the wires, then connected each wire to the identified terminals on the new switch. Re-assembled the enclosure and removed the old foam seal. I replaced the old foam with the new foam. I then placed the cook top back into the counter cutout, turned on the breaker and turned on the burner. Wa-lah, every thing worked. Great job on the instructions. It made the job easy and straight forward. The only thing I found a little difficult was trying to remove the 2 screws holding the switch in place by only removing the small access to the switch compartment. It was much easier to remove the whole bottom enclosure. Just a few more screws, which took about 5 minutes.

The identical knob to replace cracked knob, arrived 2 days after I ordered it on line. It was replaced in minutes and we were very pleased to find this available service.

just replaced the knobs and they were a perfect match,can not tell the new from the old ones. thanks for the prompt shipment

My son that is now in the Army National Guard was rather rough on the knobs for the range. Instead of pushing down and then turning, he would just turn the knobs and broke three of them. I only had one left that would operate all of the burners. I searched all over the local area and could not find any replacements for them. I went to the internet and found your site and the exact knobs I needed to replace the broken ones with. I received the new knobs in the mail and then put them on the range. It is nice to have knobs that actually work and it makes cooking much easier.

Pulled old ones off and replaced new ones by pushing them on the spindles. Very easy!

I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.

the cracked knob left the round piece of metal that is part of the knob inside the stovetop, preventing the new knob from being installed at the right height. We were able to remove the metal piece and place the new knob on at the correct height. We were very pleased at how fast the part was received.

Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.

Shut off 220 volt power to range. Removed two screws for cooktop element access. Used needle-nose pliers to remove power (2) and control (2) lugs and wires. Remove defective cooking element module, replaced. Reverse steps for new unit.

Was very easy to change. Only problem was that the wiring conections were different. Need to note wire number on old one and verify on the new part. This one had a different sequence/order than the old one. Works great so far. Hope this one lasts longer than the first one.

Take old off and put new on

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

Pushed the knob down on the spindle. Second order in three years.