JGC8430CDW11 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.

The knobs that came with our cook top were coated with a plastic to make them look like shiny metal. When we turned a flame on high with a big fry pan on top, the heat shot out the sides and started to melt one of the original knobs and the coating bubbled. We tried getting some generic knobs but they didn't fit. The new stainless knobs are substantial and fit the cook top perfectly. We are very happy with the results.

The igniiter is made of ceramic and had cracked.
I remove the burner assembly, but couldn't remove the screw holding the igniter. After trying liquid wrench and every available screw driver. I opted to order the complete burner assembly. I installed the new assembly in 5 minutes and it worked great. This is the second ceramic igniter that has cracked on this stove top and both times I've had to replace the whole assembly. For a $1000 stovetop, I expected better quality. I'm just wondering how many times I'm going to have to replace burner assemblies. Each time it's been a different assembly.

I've done this once before on this same gas stovetop as the electrode can degrade if it suffers from too many "boil-overs". The most important thing to do if the 2 screws holding the burner head on the cooktop are "tight" and don't unscrew easily is to soak them with WD-40 to loosen them up. Don't be in a hurry. They may need a couple of soak and waits. Once the screws are out, it's just a matter of connecting the wire on the electrode and replacing the burner. Also a Star screwdriver that fits properly is essential.

Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!

It could not have been easier. All I had to do was switch out the jets in each burner. First I had to sort the new jets and match to the correct burner by referring to the owners manual. Then I removed each burner and replaced the jet one at a time. Finally I had to turn the adjustment screw on each control knob clockwise until it would not turn anymore. Plug in to an electric outlet and it was good to go.

Removed the small access cover on the bottom of the cooktop by reaching inside and under the cabinets. Removed the module which was held by two hex head screws, unplugged the wires noting the location and color of the wires. Plugged the wires into the new module in the proper locations as noted previously. Attached the module with two screws, and then attached the cover/access plate with two screws. Problem resolved, repair was easy.

Installed new spark module by removing back panel of stove. Removed two screws holding old module. Disconnect lines, marking colors. Installed new. Problem not solved. Out $128 since new module was not returnable after install.
Called Judd and Black service department. Tech came on service call. Said it was bad gas valve. They ordered part. Than needed two weeks to install. I installed it and problem persisted. Could not return part because I installed it myself. Out $180. I had cleaned ignitor with alcohol from top. Took apart cooktop and cleaned from bottom. Problem fixed for free. Out over $500 in parts and labor.

Go to YouTube and find video of conversion to your or stove like yours. Then Google your model number to find your manual and find the section that tells the BTU output of each burner. They will be something like this, 5000, 7200, 12500, 15,500, etc. The logic of the orifices is small BTU=small hole in jet, large BTU=large hole in jet. Carefully inspect your jets in the conversion pack and assign which jet goes where according to hole size by burner size and BTU output. If it seems wrong when you start the stove, you might have to swap jets with another burner to get it right. Be sure to convert your incoming regulator to the LP setting by reversing the plunger under the cap. Use crescent wrench to remove cap. You must also be sure to have a regulator on your propane source. Happy converting!

Removed two screw securing wburner and disengage igniter.

Pulled old knobs off, slid new knobs on.

Removed two screws and slipped the electrode connection off. Then reserved the process.

Ordered a replacement, removed the old burner and installed the new one. Works perfectly.

removed screws that hold burner in place lifted and removed wire connection, reversed attached wire replaced two screws job done,,,

after I received the cap in the mail, I removed the grillwork and set the cap in place. then replaced the grill and my wife fixed my supper.