JGD8130ADB20 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

New burner and igniter.....actually it was very easy to to fix

Twisted and lifted off the burner, loosened in a previous repair; removed electrical wires from igniter; undid two screws holding igniter in place; rotated igniter 90 degrees and lifted it out; reversed process with new igniter.3

As described for the part. Easy repair. Easy to diagnose thanks to feedback from another customer of yours. Part was received super fast.

I thought it was probably a bad ground due to corrosion on the igniter from spilled stuff over the years. I replaced the igniter and the burner. It did not work. I pulled out the multimeter to check for ground. It seems to be ok except at the bottom of the burner where it is supposed to be. Took it all apart and reassembled. Same thing. So, I swapped the dual burner assemblies around (right to left and left to right side). Bingo, both front & back, both sides worked. I still think there was a grounding issue. But all is good now. This project should have taken 15 minutes.

The original fan switch for down draft stove top was discontinued! I found a replacement switch which worked just fine! I received switch and 2 different type replacement plates! One an exact match! Switch different but worked fine! I had to make no modification! Changed I'm about 10 minutes! I was lucky from what I read on other customers' responses!! They wouldn't promise me it would work!!

Removed old igniter. Porcelain was broken. Replaced with new igniters. Really simple to do. Took 10 minutes to replace all 4

I removed the protective grid over the filter and fan, turned the clip that held the filter in place and removed it. I placed the new intact filter for my antiquated Jenn-aire in its place, replaced the protective grid, and am happily continuing to cook on my functional cook top.Thank you.

Removed burner pan screws,igniters, gas tubes & burners. Changed 2 igniters, removed rust & repainted ends of 2 of the tubes (heatproof paint). New burners were made a hair smaller than original but locked in O.K...Now, the hard part...disconnected all four tubes from gas valve assembly. (Had to shut off gas to house in order to remove main gas line to stovetop.) Had to remove valve box in order to remove/replace frozen valve. Unit is 25 years old, works as and looks new...Rust was caused by boil-overs.

Unscrew the bottom cover, remove the old ignitor. Reverse the process to install. Hardest part was getting the bottom cover screws out because of rust. Otherwise, very simple.

Old filter allowed too much air flow causing exhaust fan to go off....installed new filter in exhaust chamber...release clip on old filter and install new filter (at an angle) in the exhaust box....clamp down clip on edge of filter and job is complete

Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

Used strap wrench to turn out. Rust build up under the burner. Used flat screwdriver to loosen under burner and strap wrench to turn out. Then replaceing the igniter was very easy.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!