JGD8348CDP16 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

old filter fell into from removing and cleaning,
removed cover pulled out filter ,replaced it with new one.

I just lifted out old filter, and put in new one.

Used strap wrench to turn out. Rust build up under the burner. Used flat screwdriver to loosen under burner and strap wrench to turn out. Then replaceing the igniter was very easy.

Thanks, have been looking for a replacement for this dinosaur filter forever. It is great!

How I did the repair is no consequence. The service of easily finding the part on your site is GREAT! and the shipping time more than reasonable! Thanks!

Followed the directions. Piece of cake!!

cut off terminals and replaced with the right size one's stove lights every time now wlrowe

The trickiest part was locating the elusive spark module. I am not certain I took the best route, but not considering all the wrong routes in trial and error, it was the most expedient. Certainly there must have been a single something to remove to get to this frequently faulted part..

Anyhow, thanks to the great part, the stove works really well again.

Removed old igniter set replaced with new one. Hardest part was using the screw driver to removing the backing. Saved us having to buy a new stove since we just bough the house.

replaced burner

undid about 7 screws to get access to underside of burner, unscrewed 4 screws that held on gas feed pipe and ignitor. twisted out old burner and gently removed ignitor from burner. cleanded up area where burner was and installed new one. took a little bit of tweeking to reinsert ignitor but did slide in nicely. reattached gas pipe and all screws. slide burner case back into position. turned on and worked nicely.

To gain access to the burner, the bottom of the double burner unit had to be removed (7 screws). Once this was achieved, it was a simple matter of removing the old burner head which is captured with three lobes that engage the unit much like a thread,(which in my case was stuck in because of rust and had to be persuaded with a pipe wrench). The new burner was installed with hand pressure only, and once the gas flange was remounted and the ignitor hooked up, I just re-attached the bottom of the unit and viola!

Removed burner pan screws,igniters, gas tubes & burners. Changed 2 igniters, removed rust & repainted ends of 2 of the tubes (heatproof paint). New burners were made a hair smaller than original but locked in O.K...Now, the hard part...disconnected all four tubes from gas valve assembly. (Had to shut off gas to house in order to remove main gas line to stovetop.) Had to remove valve box in order to remove/replace frozen valve. Unit is 25 years old, works as and looks new...Rust was caused by boil-overs.

Lots of small metal screws to remove on the housing, gas supply and electric igniters. The only challenge for me was getting the old burner heads out of the trays- they ere rusted up and needed a little penetrating oil and time to break free. I re-used my old igniters- had to bend open the little metal rod at the tip a half of a millimeter to get them to fit back thru the new heads. Keep track of how things come apart and the way the gas lines assemble and it's an easy project. Be careful not to over-tighten old screws in rusty holes in the trays.

The spark module pulses a stepped up voltage to all four burner sparks at the same time regardless of which burner you want to ignite. I read that this part lasts about 10 years. I don't cook much and it lasted 13 years. On my Magic Chef the part is behind the right side wall panel. Lift the range top,remove all the screws that hold the right side panel in place. This replacement can done without opening any gas fittings.