JGD8430ADB14 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Simple repair to replace stripped out knob. More importantly we ordered the part over Christmas and it arrived within 2 or 3 days

I actually did it manually. It was fast and easy.

To be honest, it was nothing much. Had to reach and remove metal collars that were left behind around the pins, with needle-nose pliers. Put in the new knobs, and we were done.

What really left me impressed was 1) that the rep sent me pictures of the suspected knobs over email so I could identify them easily, and 2) I was expecting to wait for a week but I had the parts the next afternoon!!

Pulled the old one off, pushed the new one on. Super easy. Simple ordering, quick processing and delivery. Way to go PartSelect!

just replaced with a new one. very easy

Unscrewed burner assembly and removed wire. Unable to remove electrode screw. Striped head of screw. Tried penetrating oil but no luck. Tried to drill and use easy out bit but ruined burner assembly and had to order new burner assembly. When assembly came it had electrode in place but website does not show electrode with assembly except on one burner. With mail and all it took about a week to fix 2 burners. Returned unused electrode for credit. Overall, cheaper then a service call by far.

The hardest part was finding the part number...and that wasn't all that bad. Perfect match; perfect fit.

Our cooktop is about 9 years old. Great appliance, but poor engineering/design choice to have aluminum knobs with plastic knob shafts, that almost every time the burner gets turned on, the plastic shaft gets stressed and they crack, rendering them useless over time. I replaced all five (5), for about $80 delivered, since I got tired of repairing them. I did see a very helpful post from a guy in Arizona (thanks if you're reading this) whose daughter glued the shafts inside and out, and then wrapped them in wire. I did the same thing with my spares (I have about 7 now, after replacing one or two over the years), as I took the metal sleeve out of the middle, glued them inside and out, and used small plastic wire ties to close them up tight, then putting the metal insert back inside. After the glue dried, I snipped off the end of the wire tie. It worked great! Thanks, Tom D., from outside Boston, MA.

Installation is simple and very straight forward. Problem, was i stripped the torx screw to release electrode because the screw was frozen. I then tore electrode out leaving space to use penetrating oil (inaffective ) then using a chisel to pop the screw out. It came out intact and did not damage the threads in the burner. So what could have been a 20 minutes job, turned into over an hour. But still worth doing myself.

parts came on time and the repair was just remove the old and replace with new.

Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.

This should be a 5 min job. Lift off the burner cover, remove two screws to lift of the burner base and then remove a Phillips head screw that hold the burner igniter in place.

Unfortunately, the screw holding the burner igniter was rusted and it could not be loosened. WD-40 did not touch it. I used a stronger penetrant, "Blaster". Still it would not budge. Then I used a small Phillips head screwdriver and a hammer which I used as an impact driver. I twisted the screwdriver slightly to loosen and hit it was a hammer. Then I twisted the screwdriver slightly to tighten and again hit it with a hammer. After the penetrant and a couple of more tries, the rusted screw finally moved!!!

With no rust, this should be an easy 5 minute replacement. The burner now works great!!!

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Pulled off the old and pushed on the new. Took less than a minute.

Removed the two fastening screws with a small square head screwdriver,lifted the burner head disconnected wire from damaged electrode. To install just reversed the steps,total time less than ten minutes.